1849.] Journal of a trip to Sikim. 509 



and in the apartment, and two fat Lamas occasionally muttering 

 prayers and counting their beads completed the group. My host's 

 ponies — 3 good ones, — were picketed close to the door. A high peaked 

 tartar saddle, and a lower peaked Chinese one, lay in a corner of the 

 room, and the whole menage had a much more Tartarian appearance 

 than I have ever met within the hills. We talked on many subjects ; 

 horses he is very partial to, and he drives a trade in them besides, 

 between his own country and Darjeeling. He asked about our extra- 

 ordinary anxiety to visit the snows, and other questions regarding the 

 Himalaya, and was greatly astonished at learning that it extended from 

 the Indus to the Burrampootur, and that we knew something about it 

 throughout this immense tract. He made what I believe is a true 

 remark, that this is the nearest way to Thibet from India. It was not 

 from him I expected this corroboration of my own notions. After 

 regaling myself with a good pull at a Choonga of quite cold Murwa 

 beer, and some oranges, both of which were most grateful after the hot 

 walk from Kedong, I took my leave. He visited me at my tent during 

 the day, and we are very amicable. At his visit he said he would 

 follow the fashion of Thibet, by presenting me on the first occasion 

 with a tray of yams,* some dried plums, a side of yak beef, and two 

 haunches of venison. That after the same fashion it was his duty, 

 and he would like to provide my meals regularly as long as I staid 

 with him, but that as he had come very hurriedly he could not do this ; 

 but would request permission to send me such provisions as the country 

 afforded. I replied, that he was unrivalled in these parts for his 

 acquaintance with Thibetan manners and usages, which in the present 

 case were very hospitable and agreeable. I shall probably have a much 

 more respectable sort of offering during the day, or to-morrow, for these 

 Sikimite officials are on all occasions pertinacious holders back in their 

 civilities as in their official acts, opening out with extreme caution, and 

 always with seeming reluctance, even when their politeness is, as in this 

 case, quite voluntary. I am informed that the Raja is engaged in some 

 unavoidable annual exercises of religion, which will occupy him till the 



* This yam is like the radicles of a larger root, not thicker than a quill ; brown, 

 and like Ipecacuani, crisp white, and sweet, and is eaten raw, as well as boiled. 

 It is called " Soman ;" the plant is said to be a creeper, and not unlike the yam 

 plant in Sikim. 



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