1849.] Journal of a trip to Sikim. 517 



and rumps of yak, and bull beaf, carried on the greasy shoulders 

 and filthy heads of Bhotias, who never wash, and who wear a gar- 

 ment from its making until it is in rags, and shining in every part 

 with the friction on sweat and dirt. Then there is butter in great 

 quantities rolled up in leaves, and tied with strips of bamboo. This 

 is cleaner, but peers out occasionally covered with dust, and in contact 

 with the carrier's neck or arms, which is very sickening. Pigs, goats, 

 kids, milk, fowls, eggs, sun-dried mutton, venison, rice, fermented murwa 

 for beer, spirits, oranges, and plantains, I think complete the list. All 

 good things enough, but the touch of a Bhotia ruins all in my esti- 

 mation, and the recklessly filthy way in which they keep their food, 

 and carry it about is altogether disgusting. 



I have all day been an object of great curiosity to the new arrivals, 

 very few of whom have ever seen a European before. Immediately 

 the Raja arrived his followers came down to the opposite shore in 

 groups to take a peep at me across the river, and after having seen me 

 at the long range for some time, they would cross over, approach cauti- 

 ously at first, salaam, and then commence their closer scrutiny. The 

 texture of my coat, the bit of velvet on its collar, my pantaloons, and 

 shoes, were all carefully touched and examined. One would say they 

 were Chinese, another, Calcutta, a third neither one nor either. Then 

 it would be asked, " Is the watch chain of gold, and the pencil case, 

 and the ring.' , All being handed round, and examined, the parties 

 passed on to the little tent, examined the bed, the table, its cloth, the 

 chair, the gun, the writing materials, and this was all it contained, — and 

 to conclude their survey, the little kitchen close by, the saddles and 

 ponies had their full attention. This sort of thing continued all day. 

 Never was a wild beast at a country fair more run after, or sought for 

 than I have been since morning. With all this intrusion and with the 

 most familiar conversation going on between us all day, I did not 

 once meet with the slightest rudeness or impertinence. The Lepchas 

 are such cheerful fellows that even with the little I can speak of their 

 language, I could raise a hearty laugh among them in few words, and 

 often did so. The Bhotias are much more grave ; but they join 

 generally in cheerfulness, and were equally devoid of offence or annoy- 

 ance, although quite as inquisitive. 



The Maha Ranee is with the Raja. She is rather young I hear, and 



3x2 



