1849.] Journal of a trip to Si/cim. 519 



For the present, I close my journal to put on my own best for the 

 occasion. 



20th. — I was summoned to the presence at I o'clock yesterday. 

 The Lasso Kaji came to escort me, and I crossed the river on the raft 

 with my own Kaji, a Moonshi, 3 orderlies from the guard, and a couple 

 of Chapprassies. There was some demur at the ferry to my taking 

 the Sepoys. " Colonel Lloyd had none, none had ever crossed the 

 Teesta before, the raft would be overloaded, &c. &c." I remarked 

 that they were merely my personal attendants, being unarmed ; and 

 that if there was a real objection to their going across, it should have 

 been made before I quitted my tent, and not actually on the ferry boat. 

 After a little delay and consultation, in which I took no part, we were 

 pushed off. The river is about 100 yards wide here, very deep indeed, 

 the stream smooth, and water clear and green. We had about 500 

 yards to walk to the place of reception. On nearing it, the Dewan, 

 very handsomely dressed in a light brown Satin Bukoo, and a large 

 deep fringed crimson cap, came down the bank to meet me. He said 

 that the Raja was all ready to see me, and that the visit would be entirely 

 formal. I had previously asked if I should introduce any matter of 

 business on that occasion. The reception room was a temporary 

 building of wood raised on posts about 4 feet from the ground, with 

 walls of split bamboo and a roof of green plantain leaves. The inner 

 walls were hung round with drapery of crimson and gold China Bro- 

 cade, figured principally in dragons and moons, which gave the apart- 

 ment a subdued light, and a Chinese character. At the further end 

 from the entrance was a temporary throne covered like the walls, 6 

 feet high at least, with steps leading up to it ; on the top of this, and 

 well back sat, the majesty of Sikim, a little old man with sharp and 

 rather regular features, and fair complexion, dressed in a yellow satin 

 robe, and a little yellow sailor-like hat, over the crown of which hung 

 a profusion of scarlet fringe. On the right, and standing like draped 

 statues against the wall were 4 fathers of the Church, viz. the Lama 

 of Pemiongchi, a Lama, an illegitimate son of the Raja, the Raling and 

 Rumtick Lamas ; they were all dressed alike in long robes of purple 

 blank etting ; their heads closely shorn, not shaved, and all were stead- 

 fastly counting their beads. But for the slight motion of their lips in 

 counting, they might have passed for inanimate fixtures. Below the 



