520 Journal of a trip to Si/dm. [May, 



Lamas came the Gantoke Kaji and other chiefs. On the left, close to 

 the throne, and between it and the wall, stood two very fine looking 

 young men handsomely dressed like the Dewan ; they were brothers of 

 the Ranee, Thibetans, from Turding near Digarchi, where their father 

 is a respectable chief. Then came my chair, and beside me stood the 

 Dewan and Aden Cheboo, who interpreted for me. My own Kaji, 

 Moonshi and other folks of whom I know not any thing, completed 

 that side. No one sat in Durbar, but myself, and there was not a 

 person inside or outside the walls, who wore arms of any kind ; I never 

 saw a more peaceful looking collection of men in my life. There was 

 an unmistakeable and undescribable quiescence over the whole party 

 that was very striking. It was clear at a glance that the genius of 

 Lamaism prevailed here over all things, and I now fully appreciated 

 what had often perplexed me, that was the manners of the Sikim Sirdars 

 approaching so often to stolidity and abstraction. It is the mannerism 

 of a priesthood, widely spread and deeply percolating the higher classes 

 of the laity,* 



The conversation was set and formal, but quite friendly. " Did I 

 meet with any mishaps on the road ? Was I well ? How was the Go- 

 vernor General 1 Was all well at Calcutta ?" and some other common 

 places. The Raja believed I did not speak his language (Thibetan) and 

 this constrained him to use an interpreter. This last however was very 

 pointed, and I expressed my extreme regret at the fact ; but hoped 

 that his Highness would excuse it, and kindly listen to any thing I 

 might say through another person. Then came my turn. This was 

 a day I had long wished for ; and it was now my happiness to express 

 in person the friendly feelings of my Government for the Raja, and to 

 shew as much as I could, how fully I participated in the same my- 

 self. The Raja replied in all sincerity I think, " The Company and 

 I have long been friends, are so now I hope, and will always continue 

 so." Then passed some formal questions and replies, about health, 

 and the journey, in the course of which the Raja said that his age did 

 not make him a good traveller now, and that he had been ailing, but 

 the journey, in his desire to meet me, when he heard I was so near, had 

 clone him good instead of any harm. Then came in 3 trays of dried 



* It is mannerism only, for they are sharp enough when self-interest or other 



pressing matters rouse them. 



