1849.] Journal of a trip to Si/cim. 521 



fruits, which were presented to me, and I begged his Highness to accept 

 a few things from myself which were in two trays on the floor, and I 

 took my leave. There was an apprehension on his part, I think, that 

 I would suddenly come upon matters of business with him, of which I 

 had no intention then, and I told the Dewan so. Before starting to 

 the visit I was told that Colonel Lloyd, to comply with the usage of 

 the Raja's Durbar, had presented his sword, which was the only thing 

 he had with him, that it was given back to him, and that if I would 

 present something in conformity to the usage, it would not be returned 

 either. I said at once that I had no wish to disturb the usage, and that 

 a few things I had brought should be presented after my visit. I took 

 the articles* with me on two English tea trays, intending to present 

 them on coming away, but they were smuggled in ahead of me, and 

 lay on the floor during the visit. I do not grudge the Raja the satis- 

 faction of putting me down in the annals of his house, as a bearer of 

 presents on visiting him. 



In the evening the Raja sent us the materials of a feast, consisting 

 of two yaks, 8 fowls, 5 loads of rice, half a maund of yak milk-butter 

 from Thibet sewed up in yak skins, a skin of tea, a bag of salt, some 

 spirits, oil, milk, garlic and radishes. This amendment on the dried 

 fruits was on the ruling principle in Sikim, which is to mend your man- 

 ners, and improve your presents by degrees. It is a standing maxim 

 in this country not to put " your best foot foremost," and an equally 

 prevalent one " to hurry no man's cattle." Don't shew a leg at all if 

 you can help it, is the rule, but if you have to shew, let it be reluctantly 

 and very slowly. At best it is an ungainly foot when it is produced, 

 and ungraciously done always, but it is not a cloven foot I think. With 

 all their obduracy, reserve, jealousy and some alarm in contact with 

 Europeans I would not at all look for treachery at their hands, and this 

 is a redeeming point in people of their grade in the scale of civilization. 

 So much is it the habit to hold back, that it is good manners to wait 

 on the Raja for the first time in your worst attire, and you never ought 

 to present any thing but the meanest trifle in food, or otherwise, on the 



* Two English tea trays ; two Scotch plaid shawls, 3-J- yards of scarlet broad- 

 cloth, a canister of snuff, a cut crystal decanter, 3 strings of large imitation amber 

 beads, a pair of Britannia metal dishes, and some Derbyshire spar table ornaments, 

 value in all about 70 Rupees. 



