216 Journal of a trip through Kulu and Lahul, fyc. [March, 



votive pieces of rag, and horns which are dedicated to Gepan. From 

 the Pass the road descended along the side of the hill to the bed of the 

 Yiinam river, which rises to the south-east near the sources of the 

 Chandra and the Bhaga. It then continued along the left bank of the 

 Yunam for about 3 miles to the Yunam lake, a large sheet of water, 

 1000 yards long by 500 yards in breadth. It must have been former- 

 ly more than twice this size, and it is probably much larger even in the 

 present day during July and August, when the snows are melted by the 

 mid-day sun. When Moorcroft saw it, it was clear : — but we found 

 it tinged with the pale ochrous clay which is washed into it by a small 

 stream on the left bank of the river immediately above the lake. The 

 dry bed is an extensive sheet of small stones, below which the water 

 may be distinctly heard trickling towards the lake. On the 28th of 

 September, when I returned by the same road, I found that the lake 

 had shrank to about three-fourths of its former size, its level having 

 fallen 3 or 4 feet, leaving the eastern side quite dry. The water was 

 much clearer than before, which was most probably owing to the greater 

 coldness of the season which had arrested the melting of the snow, and 

 stopped the supply of water which formerly washed down the pale 

 ochrous clay into the lake. Moorcroft remarks of the lake that " not a 

 weed deformed nor a wave ruffled its pellucid and tranquil waters, 

 there seemed to be no fish in it, nor was any bird nor even a fly in its 

 vicinity." The same solitude and utter desolation of the scenery 

 around the lake was remarked by ourselves, and suggested the follow- 

 ing lines, which are descriptive of the place : — 



On Yunam's still and yellow lake 



No living thing is seen : 

 Along its bleak and rocky shore 



There is no smiling green. 



The scathed bills rise on all sides 



As bare as at their birth, 

 When by tremendous force upthrust 



Fresh from the depths of earth. 



No joyous bird on early wing 



Beholds the» morning break ; 

 But winter's stern and chilly eye 



Frowns o'er the cheerless lake. 



