580 The Turaee and Outer Mountains of Kumaoon, [June, 



are compressed into a cluster ; while the vast groups of Dotee and 

 Joomla appear to eclipse Nunda Devee itself in mass and elevation. 

 The scene is such that Muhadeo has need of both his eyes to do it 

 justice. 



16 th. — To Lohoogbat, about 10 miles ; all descent for several miles 

 into the vale of Chumpawut, which the road traverses for several miles 

 —leaving the place so called to the left ; it occupies a spur of the slop- 

 ing western mountains, but is now reduced to a village. The rock is 

 gneiss and granite, decomposing rapidly, and to this cause Dr. McClel- 

 land (pp. 47, 48,) attributes the desolation of the city in a passage 

 which recals the Burdens of Isaiah and Jeremiah against Babylon, 

 The Almorah people assign a cause not less fanciful ; according to 

 them, the Raja Kulyan Chund, was hunting in the forest which then 

 covered the site of Almorah ; a hare chased into a thicket was meta- 

 morphosed into a tiger i which the Chaldeeans pronounced an omen so 

 auspicious that the seat of Empire was removed forthwith, with the 

 promise that whoever dared to hunt any of his race, would soon dis- 

 cover he had tigers to deal with. As might be expected the real cause 

 originated in political motives, A. D. 1563 : conquests had been made to 

 the northwest, and Chumpawut was not sufficiently centrical. Want 

 of time prevented a visit to the spot, where the antiquities, especi- 

 ally a ruined temple, are said to be interesting. Before coming 

 abreast of its old fort, the road passes by a fine wood of Deodar trees on 

 a rising ground, on which is a temple to Gutkoo Deotah, in whose 

 honor an annual fair is held here ; this mound is said to be named 

 " Koorm-achul," Tortoise mountain, in the Skund Poorana, because in 

 this spot Vishnoo assumed the form of a Tortoise to support the moun- 

 tain Mundura, when the ocean was churned for the water of life after 

 the deluge. The designation of the province, " Kumaoon," is said to 

 be a corruption of Koorm-achul j the people themselves write and pro- 

 nounce it, " Koomaoo :" having the reputation amongst their neigh- 

 bours of being quarrelsome and litigious, one is disposed to derive the 

 word from " Koomun," evil-disposed ; but such a brand would scarcely 

 be adopted by the people themselves. 



The old cantonment of Goorl-chour was situated to the left of the 

 road near Koorm-achul wood ; the site was hastily deemed unhealthy 

 iVom the great mortality which occurred there in 1815, among our 



