252 Notes of an Excursion to the Pindree Glacier. [March, 



an angle as to threaten us with apparent destruction. So great 

 was their combined roaring that all conversation was kept up by 

 shouting, and with the party over the water by gesticulations only. 

 At night, one could not help fancying one's self on board a colossal 

 steamer, with the thunder of the machinery and the incessant plash of 

 the paddles deafening one ; but there all is guided by skill and design : 

 here the wild war of the elements seemed to terminate in destruction 

 merely. They afforded a fine study for the action and resistless force 

 of large bodies of water in motion down steep planes. Everywhere the 

 lateral torrents had heaped up on each of their banks enormous bunds 

 of mud, gravel, and huge rocks. When we passed, the waters of course 

 had greatly subsided, and perhaps in their utmost force could never 

 move such blocks ; these must be owing to the landslips and great 

 debacles of mud, in which the specific gravity of the stones is reduced 

 almost to nothing. When subsequent rains have washed away the 

 mud, there remain those immense coulees of rocks so prevalent along 

 the mountain slopes as we approach the Himalaya. 



September 24th. — With Ram Singh as guide, one of my own follow- 

 ers who wished to see the glacier, two Danpoor coolies, tea apparatus, 

 and a column of ready-made chupatees, I started at 10 : 20 a. m. for 

 Dooglee, and reached at 1p.m. distance about five miles. The rise 

 is gradual but continuous, and except near Diwalee, though the road 

 was much cut up by the innumerable torrents and rivulets still rush- 

 ing across it, I did not experience much difficulty ; there, one or two 

 formidable landslips had fallen, which compelled us to rise and get 

 round them — not very pleasant work, when all was still tottering. The 

 "still-vexed" Pindur raves close on the left hand during the route, 

 and at about two miles from Diwalee becomes most savage, leaping 

 down its rocky bed and among the birch-covered boulders in a series 

 of the most Cambrian rapids and cataracts. It flows from J 50 to 200 

 feet below Dooglee, whence, and indeed from the glacier, its course to- 

 wards Diwalee, is nearly straight, and due south. At about one mile 

 from the latter place, there is, across the Pindur, a very fine waterfall : 

 and higher up, on the same side, where the crags fall precipitously to 

 the river, three or four more, all equally beautiful, fed by the snows, 

 and trembling over the bleak bare rock above the line of vegetation in 

 copious sheets of spray. On the left bank the cliffs and shivered pin- 



