1847.] Journal of a Steam Trip to the north of Baghdad. 321 



bore east. In shape it is a cone similar to that of the tomb of Zobeidi 

 in Baghdad, on a square base. The village is a collection of miserable 

 houses on the undulating mounds forming the east margin of the 

 valley of the Tigris, and boasts of a small minaret. Rich appears to iden- 

 tify this spot with the "plains of Dura" of Scripture. The river opposite 

 the village is disposed into numerous channels, much contracted, through 

 which it flows at a very rapid pace.* Having with difficulty ascended 

 beyond the numerous islands, came to an anchor above the village about 

 one mile to receive our fuel which is piled on the bank awaiting us. 



The inhabitants soon collected. The Pasha's letter was presented 

 and received with every mark of respect. After a short consultation, 

 a boisterous fellow was called for, with hands stained with indigo, and 

 who followed the calling of a dyer as well as Moollah and teacher to 

 the "young ideas" of Dur. The letter was handed to him to read 

 aloud for the satisfaction of his auditors, who formed a circle around. 

 Diving his right hand into his pocket, which was capacious enough to 

 hold any one of his scholars, he produced a pair of barnacles, and fixing 

 himself in a commanding position, vociferated forth the contents of the 

 missive, at the full pitch of his stentorian voice. When he concluded a 

 buz of applause signified the approbation of the assembly, and their 

 willingness to act in any way I might require. 



To the east of Dur, about one and half miles, a high tumulus named 

 Tel Benatf or the " girl's mound" is situated. It is similar to the Tel 



* On the fourth night after the death of Julian the army under Jovian encamped at 

 this place, and experienced much difficulty in vain attempts to cross the Tigris. The 

 ignominous treaty between Sapoor and Jovian was here concluded. The impregnable 

 fortress of Nisibis and the stronghold of Singara, were acquired by the Persians in a 

 single article and a disgraceful peace of thirty years' duration consented to by the 

 " obscure domestic," as Gibbon terms the newly elected emperor. Gibbon, Vol. 3, page 

 228. Great difficulty would no doubt be met with at the present time in crossing a large 

 army at this particular spot. The River is here more than usually rapid from the great 

 declivity of its bed. 



t This resembles Tel Ahj in appearance. It is about the same height, and evidently of 

 equal antiquity ; much care has been taken in its construction and the remains of a ditch 

 and covered way are still discernable. The " tumulus" is no doubt of Roman origin, 

 and copper coins bearing Roman characters but too much corroded to render them 

 decypherable, were found in its neighbourhood. We know that both the Greeks and 

 Romans erected conspicuous mounds or piles over the ashes of their celebrated Generals, 

 and it is presumed they would have resorted to this mode of burying their illustrious 



