322 Journal of a Steam Trip to the north of Bayhdad. [April, 



Alij, and can be seen some distance off from its isolated position on the 

 plain. Between it and the village are many lime kilns. Lime is here 

 found in great quantities, and Baghdad is chiefly supplied from this 

 place. It is conveyed in rafts down the Tigris.* I remarked that the 



dead in a country where stone is not available for monuments. The sacred nature of 

 the tomb amongst the nations of antiquity which preserved these structures inviolate in 

 former ages, has equally defended them from the ruthless hand of the superstitious Arabs. 

 Time also, instead of demolishing adds to a fabric of this nature, as every blast of wind that 

 sweeps over the desert, carries with it clouds of dust which accumulates on and enlarges 

 the original structure, rendering it the most durable and imperishable of all monuments. 



If Tel Alij be admitted as the tomb of the ill-fated Julian, we may conclude that Tel 

 Benat covers the remains of the legionaries who fell in the repeated attacks made by 

 Persians, and of the many who lost their lives in the ill-conducted attempts to cross the 

 Tigris at this spot. 



* The rafts in use on the Tigris at the present day have in no wise altered since the 

 days in which Herodotus, the author of the Analysis, and the Historian of the Emperor 

 Jovian, compiled their works. They are composed of the branches of trees supported on 

 the inflated skins of sheep, and are capable of carrying a load of from 30 to 40 tons. These 

 rafts are admirably adapted for the descent of the upper Tigris. Possessing but a small 

 draft of water, they are enabled to float over the numerous dikes and shallow spots met 

 with in its course to Baghdad. Floating with the stream, two or four paddles, according" 

 to the size of the raft, are capable of retaining it in the fair channel, and accidents there- 

 fore very rarely occur. On the raft being- unladen at Baghdad the timber it is composed 

 of is sold for what it will fetch, and the skins after being dried are conveyed back to either 

 Tekrit or Mosul by land. In this manner the whole of the immense blocks comprising 

 the Khorsabad marbles lately excavated from a village of that name in the neighbourhood 

 of Mosul, by Monsieur Batta, the French vice-consul, at the expense of his Government, 

 were conveyed to Baghdad and there shipped into native boats for Basra, where the 

 national brig Cormorant was in readiness to receive and finally convey them to France. 



Travelling by raft as a matter of convenience, is far preferable than by the land 

 journey from Mosul to Baghdad. A tolerable-sized tent sufficient to protect one from 

 the sun can be pitched on this original conveyance, and a few books, with the varying 

 scenery, will tend to while away the few days, (not exceeding six and sometimes only 

 two) that maybe occupied in the descent of the river. It is however not at all times 

 a safe route, for when the Arabs are in a disorganized state, consequent generally on 

 some ill-timed measures resorted to by the Government for their coercion, they fail not 

 in stopping and plundering any rafts or passengers that may chance to come within 

 reach of them ; indeed, I am informed, that on one occasion, a British officer happened 

 to be journeying in this manner and was thus waylaid ; my informant added that not- 

 withstanding the over-confident individual was armed to the teeth, and had hinted a 

 determination not to be taken alive, he was stripped of every thing he possessed, even 

 to his nether garments. I have since met some of the party who helped to denude the 

 unfortunate traveller. It was both ludicrous and amusing to witness the delight with 

 which they imitated his piteous supplications to be allowed to retain only his shoes. 



