132 Narrative of a Journey to Cho Lagan, fyc. [Aug. 



Chanwr (the Yak) which latter appear to be more numerous in Byans 

 than the mule breed ; and two more of these cattle go as far as the pass 

 to take fuel and assist in relieving the loads of the others in case of dif- 

 ficulties in the snow. We have also a couple of saddle ponies, which 

 may be of use beyond the pass ; these are indifferent, long-legged ani- 

 mals, bred in Pruang, whence the Byansis get the few horses that they 

 have. The only things in the shape of tents that I have been able to 

 get from the Byansis are half a dozen " Chera," which are blankets, 

 perhaps four yards by two, furnished with loops at the corners and 

 sides by means of which with two sticks and a few pegs of Birch tree a 

 quasi tent is rigged out in a few minutes to any required size and shape, 

 and if necessary the several Cheras are tacked together with the large 

 needles and woollen yarn which every Bhotia carries with him. We 

 have taken provisions enough to subsist us all for near a fortnight, so 

 that we may be independent of intercourse with Hunia villages and 

 Bung, in which lie risks of an untimely end to our travels. 



To obviajje the questionable appearance of English bottles, as well as 

 their fragility, I have filled a lot of Port wine into a pair of the Bho- 

 tia wooden surais, and some rum, &c. into another pair. The spirits 

 should do well enough in this style of decanting, but it is a very doubt- 

 ful experiment with the Port already deteriorated to the usual Indian 

 quality. 



I have of course adopted the Hindustani " Dliab" of costume, just 

 enough to pass muster in the distance, and nothing more, as I have 

 not attempted to disguise the Feringi complexion of my face and hair, 

 and my clothes are so much cleaner than the cleanest of my compa- 

 nions that the contrast entails some risk of attracting notice and mark- 

 ing me for a " Nya admi," in a country whose native inhabitants vie 

 with their authorized visitors from our side of the snow in the personi- 

 fication of filth. I perceive now that I should have had my clothes 

 dyed of a dirt colour as the only possible way of getting up a passable 

 resemblance to the Byansi Bhotias, or even to my Kumaonis, who are 

 also villainously dirty. In Jwar I found some of the head people 

 tolerably clean and decent. 



For food, &c. having laid in a good stock of materials, I depend for 

 cookery on Bhauna, Anand and the Bhotias. 



All my Hindustani servants, with the bulk of my baggage, &c. re- 



