1848.] Narrative of a Journey to Cko Lagan, fyc. 151 



them into it, so I resolved to push through it at once, rather than 

 waste time in indecision or retrograde movements. We descended 

 accordingly, into the hollow connecting the two valleys, whence we 

 perceived the southern Tol to be more extensive than the other, with 

 a number of black tents, some of them of good size. There was a fine 

 expanse of verdant pasturage in a flat bottom enclosed by steep hills, 

 and a deep rivulet came out of the southern valley through the narrow 

 passage into the northern, thence turning east, towards Rakas Tal. 

 We crossed this and immediately ascended the hills, which began again 

 on the other side, without hindrance from the enemy, who kept their 

 camp at tolerably safe distance. Continuing along this ridge of hill 

 till sunset, we had the northern Tol with the Bung in it, still close 

 under our left. The Bhotias were so paralyzed with fear that I had to 

 take the lead myself, though ignorant of the ground, and show the 

 way to what I thought a safe corner for our encampment during the 

 night, but the want of water obliged us to keep close to the Tol. Thus 

 dodging about the hills we were 3 hours in reaching a point not more 

 than 2 miles up the eastern valley, at the entrance of which we were 

 diverted from our proper course. The shepherds here when visited by 

 some of my Bhotias, proved to be as harmless neighbours as those of 

 Chujia-Tol, being quite uninquisitive about us, though our parade along 

 the top of the hill over their heads might well have attracted their 

 notice and suspicions. It would have been as safe probably and much 

 easier, to have walked straight through the Bung by the proper road, 

 as my imitation of the Bhotia costume, &c. was good enough to pass 

 muster at a little distance, and it is not the vocation of shepherds to 

 stop and question travellers on the high road. The timidity of the 

 Bhotias to-day was little short of rank cowardice, and rather disgusted 

 me, as promising to increase difficulties. Bhauna evinced much better 

 sense and spirit. 



Near this I saw some deer, " Riddkh," i. e. " Banbdshi," "Jungle 

 squatters." They were in herd, of a dozen or so, small-sized (as bio- 

 as Kakar perhaps) of very pale fawn color, approaching to white, and, 

 as well as I could make out, with stag-antlers. 



Thermometer at 9 a. m. 30°. I had no opportunity of boiling here, 

 but the elevation must be much the same as that of Amlang, 15,250 

 feet. The Byansis could not give me any name for this place, but 



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