334 Narrative of a Journey to Cho Lagan, fyc. [Sept. 



I found the march from Golam-la to Gala easier than yesterday's 

 journey ; though in steep steps a good part of the way ; one main 

 ascent and descent across Nirpaniah, is less troublesome than the suc- 

 cession of rugged ups and downs, between Budhi and Golam-la ; this 

 stage too is better shaded than the other, an advantage even at this 

 season, the mid-day sun being still too hot. 



We met a smiling rosy-faced Tinker on the top of Nirpaniah, who 

 gave me a drink of water, and informed me that his pass is not so easy 

 as Lipu Lekh, and the snow on it more troublesome, because his village 

 has but 5 or 6 Man (families) whose small traffic is insufficient to 

 make a good beaten path, Gala ; comfortable quarters again in the cot- 

 tages which afforded us so opportune a retreat in the three days' deluge 

 of 18th to 20th September. Thermometer at A\ p. m. 62°, boiled at 

 199°; elevation 7500 feet; the Kali hidden by the steepness of the 

 ravine, is perhaps 1500 feet below. 



Thermometer at sunset 66° ; the sudden rise of temperature caused, 

 I believe, by clouds which gathered in the evening. 



\7th October. — Gala. — Thermometer at sunrise 49° ; marched to 

 Titil Sosa, so Hirdu Budha names the encamping ground between his 

 two villages. Thermometer at A\ p. m. 62° ; boiled at 198° ; eleva- 

 tion 8000 feet; Thermometer at sunset 57°. 



18^ October. — Titil Sosa. — Thermometer at sunrise 50° : marched 

 to Kela. Darma Bhotias inform me that they call their river the 

 Darma Yankti ; others say the Gori, which is also the name of the 

 Jwar river. The names Kali and Gori are derived from the peculiar 

 color of the water of those rivers at their sources. The Khasias of 

 Kela call the Darma river Dhauli, as down on the map ; and Patwari 

 Doorga Dutt thinks that this name is supported by the authority of the 

 Purana, which treat of these localities. Nyne Dhura, the eastern pass 

 of Darma, is a little stiffer than Lankpya (of western Byans). The 

 Glacier lies on the north side of it towards Hundes. The one man 

 and some 100 laden sheep were lost this year, not on the Glacier, but 

 by an avalanche which overwhelmed them at night in their encampment 

 at Dawa, the Dakhna of the pass ; this side, Kach, the western pass of 

 Darma, has Glaciers on both sides : some say it is dangerous and not 

 frequented. Lebun Dhura, from Darma into N. western Byans, still 

 frequented, is steepish and snowy ; but not so high as Lankpya ; the 



