TenilB, Four Dollars 



NEW YORK, THURSDAY, MAX 10, 1877. 



jnor Forest and Stream. 

 OLD CAZADOR'S DREAM. 



IN camp one night on a mountain top, 

 Some angel sent a dream to me : 

 I was sleoping a hunter's easy sleep 

 Beneath a pifton tree. 

 I dreamed that from a floating cloud 

 Fair lauds were shown to me, 

 Lakes and rivers, plains aud mountains 

 8uchasin this world we Beldom see; 

 Steep, wide canons— and lu every canon 

 Trout streams flowing toward a quiet sea; 

 Groves of pine in pinon time— the nuts 

 Hung heavy on every tree. 

 A wealth of fruit on the wooded mouutaius, 

 And grass in the valleys there seemod to be. 



Elk, deer, antelope, bear and buffalo 



Were thick in the land, as I could see; 



Trails led to every spring of water— 



They looked happy and fat as they oould be. 



In every thicket quail were calling; 



Song birds flew from tree to tree; 



Wild fowl covered the lakes and rivers; 



Seals were sleeping by the quiet sea. 



In air, clear and bright with sunshine, 



The cloud I lay on floated free, 



Over a camp by a river, where I saw the spirit 



Of Tejunga waiting there for me. Et, Cazadob. 



jupenor in WBO. 



BY AECHBE. 



No. I. 



TO visit Lake Superior for health, I took the firsbstep by 

 stepping on board the steamer Illinois, at about mid- 

 night of any night you may please to select in August, 1860. 

 In the hurry and hustle of getting on hoard I came so near 

 losing my valise that I fear I lost the date, and I know I lost 

 lay patience; though I am happy to say I found the former 

 and the latter in a few days; the date, however, being ob- 

 livions, will be better "imagined than described." 



My first business on board was "to attend to business," by 

 securing a room and passage to Marquette. From the many 

 letters of excursionists which I have read I never could find 

 any data on which to found a guess at the probable expense 

 of a trip North. The fare to Marquette from Port Huron 

 was ten dollars at this time, and I believe still remains at 

 the same figure; I state this here lest I should be taken for a 

 ' 'dead head, " as I have heretofore taken those letter- writing 

 excursionists who fear to mention what the enterprising 

 owners of boats are too stingy to pay for advertising. 



Next morning at sunrise the writer might be seen— if any 

 one looked in the right place for him — standing on the 

 hurricane deck, trying to make discoveries. He discovered 

 Lake Huron on one side, meeting the sky at a point he 

 never saw before, and on the other washing a, to him, newly 

 discovered part of Michigan, the said Michigan lying 

 lazily along the horizon and bearing the aforesaid ablutions 

 with becoming composure, though old Huron drifted her 

 big waves to the work with energy, and doubtless, like good 

 housewives in olden times, mixed sand plentifully with the 

 liquid element. He also discovered the Illinois carrying her- 

 self steadily along northward. Many other times during 

 the day he visited the upper deck, but nothing was to be 

 discovered externally but the same monotony, till night shut 

 out even that, and left the boat yet working on her pathless 

 way. At night, however, at about 11 p. m., the boo-oo-oom 

 and hoot-oot-hoot of the steamer's puncheon whistle gave 

 warning^ of our nearing Mackinac. Here we discharged a 

 company of travellers from Louisville, Ky., whose unaffected 

 affability and real gentility left a blank in our cabin, society. 

 In two hours we were off again, enveloped in darkness and 

 blankets till about 7 a. m. of the second day, when we 

 touched at Detour, a place with a wharf and two or three 

 houses, where boats turn to ascend the St. Marie Kiver. 

 After a few moments' delay we move on again and arrive at 

 the Brace Mines at about ten a. m. Here we remained three 

 or four hours, while the boat discharged such immense 

 numbers of empty whiskey barrels that one would think all 

 the rivers of Ohio, from whence they came, must have flowed 

 with fine whiskies if they had ever been filled. Their red 

 and yellow ends suggested noses and eyes of corresponding 

 colors, while their bare sides spoke of naked feet and 

 dingy-clothed children. These barrels are brought hither to 

 be filled with ore, which is shipped hence to England to be 

 smelted. The principal ore obtained here is the yellow 

 aulphuret of copper. It is intimately incorporated with the 



trap rock in which it is found, but is separated from it by 

 reducing the masses in crushing mills, and then washing 

 out the ore by processes and machinery too complicated and 

 tedious to be described understandingly without illustrative 

 drawings. Gray, black and purple ores of copper are also 

 found here, but only in insignificant quantities. The gray 

 ore is considered the richest. The miners at these mines — 

 the Bruce and Wellington — make about forty dollars per 

 month, and pay two dollars and a half per week for board. 

 They are principally Highland (Scotch) and Cornish men, 

 and seem to be very well pleased with their employers. 

 While I and some others visited the Wellington Mine and 

 its washing works, about half a dozen of our passengers re- 

 mained on the pier fishing for black bass, which swarmed in 

 such numbers in the bay that two of the anglers caught up- 

 ward of cne hundred in the course of an hour. All that I 

 saw were of less than usual size; the local name for the bass 

 seems to be, "gray perch." Very fine specimens of spar 

 crystals with variegated copper ore are offered for sale by the 

 miners, but they ask outlandish prices for .them. For one 

 specimen not more than four inches square the owner 

 asked twelve dollars. I went on shore provided with a 

 hammer and a basket, and secured a good load of such 

 specimens as I thought best illustrated the geology of the 

 place. Here I may give a practical hint to the tourist, by 

 suggesting the previous preparation of a good, stout hand- 

 basket and a hammer of good size, say about that of a black- 

 smith's hand hammer, that is, provided he has not a proper 

 geological tool. With these he can procure and carry with 

 him many specimens for which, without them, he might long 

 hopelessly. 



At two p. M., or thereabouts, we left the bay and pro- 

 ceeded onward up the river; and here I am at a loss for de- 

 scriptive powers by which to convey any adequate idea of 

 the peculiar island scenery which delights, astonishes and 

 bewilders the tourist all the way from Bruce Mines to within 

 a few miles of the Strait. The distance is fifty miles, and 

 throughout the passage the river is not a river, but a regular 

 archipelago of miles in width; and the channels are so di- 

 vided and sub-divided by low rocks, islets and islands, 

 from a few feet to several miles in extent, that the observer 

 is ever on the alert expecting to get a glance of the real 

 shore, but just as constantly disappointed by finding, every 

 little while, that which he supposed to be the shore resolv- 

 ing into more and more islands by newly-appearing chan- 

 nels, until at last he gives up in despair, and concludes that 

 there is no shore at all. And even after arriving at that sage 

 conclusion, he may entertain the delusionfor a long time be- 

 fore it is dispelled. At length, however, when within about 

 ten miles of the Sault, the main shore greets the eye, and 

 soon we" stop at the great raspberry-jam establishment owned 

 by a live Yankee named Church, who, during the raspberry 

 season, employs some three or four hundred Indians and 

 half-breeds in gathering berries, which he manufactures 

 into jam by the ton for the public markets of the South and 

 East The jam is shipped to ports on Lakes Erie and 

 Michigan, and goes to the public tables in our hotels, 

 saloons and steamboats. It appears to be of excellent 

 quality, but being manufactured in such a wholesale 

 way, the eater should not allow himself to indulge in con- 

 jectures as to the number of creeping things generally found 

 on berries, particularly those gathered by Indians. Our 

 Grahamite Brahmins must not indulge in nice analysis with 

 the article. After obtaining a due. share of jam, we ran up 

 the river with renewed vigor, passing the Catholic and 

 Baptist missions on the way. We reached the far-famed 

 Sault before sunset, and stayed an hour, busying ourselves 

 with examining the canal, and watching some Indians in 

 canoes, fishing in the rapids. Since the opening of this 

 . canal the former business of the Sault has declined to a 

 mere nothing, and the place is now a beggarly, desolate, 

 dreary, deserted looking spot of squalor and squaws, so I 

 shall not sully my paper by writing more of it. Just as we 

 emerged from the canal we were struck with astonishment, 

 admiration and awe by that incomparable display of 

 Heaven's pyrotechny. those inexpressible splendid Northern 

 lights, or rather the aurora borenliB and australis com- 

 bined, which have set half the world a-talking ever since, 

 trying to describe, but only insulting them by vain attempts 

 at verbal expression. While our steamer floats out on to the 

 waves of Superior, and I sit entranced watching those 

 splendid illuminations, I feel so much like Bayard Taylor, 

 when in the Hasheesh dream he sailed under the vaulted 

 heaven of rainbows, that I shall remain here until next 

 week. 



No. n. 



Having regaled myself with watching tho play of those 



magnificent illuminations referred to in No. I, I retired 



to No. 43, my state-room, and slept a good refreshing sloop, 

 such as I sought on leaving Port Huron. 



Early next morning, on repairing to my usual lookout, I 

 found that, to the north, Sui>erior's dark surface touched 

 the sky away far off, as Huron had touched it toward the 

 east on the first morning of my voyage. On the south, at a 

 distance of a few miles, lay Michigan, still sleeping as be- 

 fore, but much increased in size: for now aline of hum- 

 mocked mountains lay up against tho sky, with a rich evor- 

 green counterpane of forest covering its swelling sides down 

 to the top of a bold ledge of buff-colored rocks, against 

 whose wall-like sides the headlong waves spent their 

 thundering force. This time, though the waters laved the 

 sides of sleepy Michigan, there was no sand used in the 

 operation. The sand was far below ; for tho perpendicular 

 wall of rock ran many fathoms below the surface, and deep 

 water is found close up to the wall. Such strokes and sounds 

 make fit music for the sleeping monster. Then come next 

 upon the wall the marks and flaws, like giant caricatures, 

 which have been named the "Pictured Rocks:" and then the 

 wall juts out at one place, and a natural channel is worn 

 through parallel with the wall for some distance, and this is 

 known as the Arched Bock, neither of them being very 

 great curiosities. A few miles further and we pass to the 

 lakeward of an island covered with a rich rugof green. We 

 pass it at the distance of a few miles, and as we see it with its 

 perpendicular sides of buff-colored rock, and its undulating 

 profile stretching along against the sky, it seems so finished, 

 so majestic, and so rich, we instinctively pronounce it Grand 

 Island! And so it is called ; no one could ever have called 

 it by another name. It is a grand island, and the most 

 worthy of its name of any island I ever saw. 



Such a morning, too, as this ! So fresh, so healthful, the 

 air so pure, and atmosphere so clear, we begin to think the 

 Lake Superior region as full of health as stories tell, and 

 surmise that not half its praises have been sung. Indeed, 

 had we been gifted with good lungs we might have tried a 

 warble; but then, who knows a song befitting such a scene ? 

 The song should be new and made just for that time and 

 place; but who could word the lines to tell its glories? 



After passing Grand Island we continued our course west- 

 ward parallel to the shore on our left for some distance lie- 

 fore observing anything ahead but sky and water, as we 

 supposed. In less than an hour, however, a distant fog, 

 which had lain unobserved upjon the water ahead, was 

 gradually lifted like a white veil of gauze, and as it slowly 

 curled away and its fairy folds showed themselves for an 

 instant and melted into nothing, Keweenaw Point showed 

 itself in the northwest, away off in the distance. First a 

 speck, and then a low, dark line was discovered as the thin, 

 airy fog was gently peeled from the horizon. The point 

 thus soon showed its connection with the main on our loft 

 by the low, dark line becoming continuous between the two, 

 and bounding the horizon on our bow. As we ploughed 

 toward this distant lino, it gradually rose higher and higher, 

 and became a mountain chain with undulating profile like 

 that on our left; and soon its swelling sides and shaded lines 

 of intervening valleys stood up before us away over tho field 

 of waters. 



As yet the shore and mountain sides retained their moss- 

 like covering unbroken, and no shaven spot of field or farm, 

 or white speck of human habitation gave signs of the white 

 man's intrusion. The place toward which our bowsprit 

 pointed was still and summer-like, and seemed soft beds of 

 mossy mounds covering the distant mountain side. The 

 captain's heavy voice breaks the stillness — "starboard a 

 little!" and "starboard a little it is," responds the wheel. 

 Our bows turn slightly to the left, and quick tho word is 

 heard, "Marquette! Marquette! Yes, there it is." We strain 

 our eyes at the distant shore, and there a little spot, with a 

 few white specks, is seen just above the water's edge, at the 

 foot of the sunny slope: like the little white eggs of a bird's 

 nest on'a mossy bank, it nestles in the green mountain side. 



Then all is stir and bustle, and persons hurry hither and 

 thither with carpet-bags, valises and banelboxes, all ready 

 for a start. They walk nervously from one place to another 

 on the deck, as if they were actually on shore and at their 

 several purposes. They soon find, however, that they got 

 along just as fast by being still, and so they seat themselves 

 to wait; but with a fidgety patience, for they only keep still 

 a minute, and then walk here and there again, and so kill 

 time. 



As we approach nearer, we find Marquette to be a beauti- 

 ful little place, embosomed in woods, and situated immedi- 

 ately above the first lift of the shore upon the slope of I he 

 mountain, and flanked by hills which are spurs of the 

 mountain, here jutting out on each sideinto the bay to form 

 the harbor which opens to the east. The harbor is small, 



