206 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



but opens on a large hay capable of containing hundreds of 

 ii tolerable security, except during B northeast 



blow. At 3uoh times tho harbor in the only place that affords 

 security. At the time of our entry there were sonio fifteen or 

 twenty sail in, discharging freight, loading or awaiting their 

 torn to load, etc B I too, we found the Northern Light, 

 one of the line boats, on her way down the lakes. At this 

 place X took leave of tho Illinois with some regret, haying 

 found the accommodations as good as I desired, and the 

 officers polite and obliging; none more so than the captain, 

 who, in addition to other desiderata, had the reputation of 

 being the best sailor on the route. Here I found a fellow 

 townsman, A L , who had preceded rne with an ob- 

 ject similar to my own; so we became atonce fellow sojourn- 

 ers, fellow sufferers, fellow seekers — in tine, by virtue of I be 

 innate royalty of the inhabitants of this country by which 

 the order of Commoners is abolished and every man is a 

 ting, we beuraie Fellows of the Boyal Society. "The ment- 



ilhA L ■ was happy in more anusia than one, 



for by his kind offices 1 v. as speedily installed in a CO 



coojn in a private boardiug-bo use, where was obtained 

 all the accommodations afforded by a. hotel, without the 

 style, but with much more quiet, and, as I think, comfort. 

 "The impression made by the town was more than favora- 

 ble. In truth, I never saw a cleaner, more tasteful or more 

 nrd erly town of its size than .Marquette. There was little or no 

 drunkenness visible; although the town contained at this 

 time some eighteen hundred or two thousand inhabitants, 

 yet there were but three liquor saloons, and I saw but one 

 intoxicated person during a stay of two weeks. 



The merchants and professional men compared favorably 

 With those of places six times its size. They were generally 

 intelligent, active, weak-day looking men, obliging, com- 

 municative, and well informed on subjects of general inter- 

 est. In fact, those thai ii was my good fortune to meet 

 were nearly all educated men, who' could talk on more sub- 

 jects than their immediate callings, and seldom distressed 

 one by dragging in horses or politics as conversational 

 themes. 



The buildings were in general quite tasteful, and, though 

 property was held very high, yet thegrounds around private 

 residences were not. pinched" up or stingy-looking. There 

 were no shanties and nests of rottenness such as disfigureso 

 i reels of most. Michigan towns. 



In 



Lee 



the mountains at fourteen, seven- 

 rcspeetively, and are connected 



tho 



the dooki 



inch the ore from them, 

 nl tons weekly, is brought in and shipped from 

 Tho railway, as it enters the town, separates into 

 three tracks, each of which is continued out for a consider- 

 able distance into the harbor on raised trestle-work, at a 

 hcUdit of t wentv feet or more above the water. The cars are 

 into slides, which conduct the ore into the holds of 

 ing alongside, and though a vessel is thus rapidly 

 ii .:. D, y< t there were from ten to thirty craft all the time 

 waiting their turn to load. Many of the vessels bring coal, 



i i ,| and the soarser kinds of provisions from tho 



lower lakes as ballast; so that those articles were really 

 cheaper than in most towns on the lower lakes. I will defer 

 an account of the mines till next week. 

 No. in. 



e, the most distant from the town, 



W Mountain, eighteen miles from 



iploys about one hundred men, of 



ige of forty doll: 



The Iron Mountain Mi 

 is m what is called Super 

 Marquette. This mine e 

 whom two-thirds are mil 

 per month for" miners ax 

 pay two and a quarter 

 principal ore at the Supe 

 ore, its averi 

 cent. A mi 



and thirl v for laborers. These men 

 or dollars per week for board. The 

 tperioi Mountain is the rock or slate 

 if pure iron being about sixty-fire bet 

 Marquette, on the railway line, is tin 



Cleveland Mine, which employs about three-fourths as many 

 men as the preceding. The principal ore here is also the 

 slate, but they obtain larger quantities likewise of another 

 kind known as mixed ore, which is more porous in appearance 

 than the former, and has greenish sticks running through it. 

 It is said to be more easily wrought, and quite as line as the 

 slate variety. 



Fourteen miles from Marquette, also on the railway, is 

 the Jackson or Sharon Company s Mine, at which what is 

 known as hematite ore i8 found in nearly equal quantities 

 With the slate. The hematite occurs in irregular, very s6Ud 

 lumps, varying in size from little nuggets up to masse- jghJ 

 or ten inches in diameter. It yields a larger percentage of 

 iron than any other kind except what is culled granular or 

 steel ore, which is only found in -mull quantities. A small 

 Tillage called tfaegaunee -Go-aiead— has grown up around 

 lr;iiiiMino, and at this place the Pioneer Smelting 

 Company's furnace and worts are- located. At these works 

 make pig and bloom iron, which ia shipped from 

 Marquette in large quantities. The flux used here is ob- 

 tained froma rerj beautiful and rich-looking variegated 

 marble, which tS quarried from a ledge six miles nearer to 

 Marquette, on the railway. This smelting furnace tend an- 

 other called the ColliuBviile Works, located on the Dead B i p, 

 four and one-half miles northwest from Marquette, employ 

 great numbers of men around them in chopping wood and 

 converting it into charcoal to be used in the smelting opera- 

 tions. Hundreds of acn s are thus Stripped of their wood, 

 but the land cleared will not pay for cultivation: so that 

 i quantities of potatoes end oats are the only articles 

 bad to an extent worthy of notice. 



To the mineralo;. 



ibjetfl ■ IS lU-eKOLltCd, 



and instructiyi 



, . aware found 

 granular, micaesou 

 mixed: anf 



-ending series of interesting 

 every hand are found curious 

 if various mineral varieties. At 

 ■ ' era! varieties of iron ore, slate, 

 hematite, banded, sulphnret. and 

 mile north of Marquette is a vein 

 U i ■ ore with which we amused ourselves by testing 

 a upon the compass. Opposite the Cleveland Mine 

 iain bluff, two hundred feet in height, with a per- 



Ihii bluff is .-.imposed entirely of banded jasper andiron, 



Tritcrlamelliitcd with each other in such curious zig zag and 



undulatnyy disposition and varied colors, that one never 



. admiring its beauties. South of the town are the 



a an old mill, formerly used for sawing the, marble 



already referred to, and for 'manufacturing hones from oil 



stone, which Is found in a quarry about four miles back from 



I e h of the hones are reported as excellent, hut 



b1 I not pay, and tho works are nov, 3 



forgi i.i ■ b. 



At the Lighthouse point, about a mile north 

 Marquette, is a place where cornelian is said to be obtained 

 in the winter season. And all along the north si J , of 6hi 



harbor n. ini -i o may be traced, of Varying oi 



from nearly pue to clayey on the one hand, and ferruginous 

 ,:liaie,.n the other, and from the laticj' lo the common trap 



rocl oft) sion, w seating a moat interesting lesson in 



ig; ... geology combined. Then at <'■. [1 lisle 

 En miles northeast from the town, some 



of the most instructive exhibitions of Nature's workings are 

 tobeseen. Tho placeis about a mile across, but stands "up in 

 some places nearly two hundred feet above the water, with 

 the top overhanging the base. Mr. YVliiUlesev, the then 

 sheriff of the county, who came hither from Cleveland for 

 his health in '55, had his residence on the island peninsula, 

 and with his family lived, like a king of the lake, alone in 



the forest on this immense rock. We found Mr. W a 



very gentlemanly, obliging person, who takes great pleasure 

 in the enjoyment ..f o'tiiers. He and his servant took us ina 

 boat ai on, I the cliff which fronts the lake, and certainly a 

 more imposing spectacle and instructive geological lesson 

 than "was here afforded carvnol tasily be obtained inashorter 

 time. On rowing out to a distance of eight or ten chains 

 from the base of the cliff at its boldest front, the structure 

 and formation of the whole become at once apparent. The 

 trees, soil, and from fifty to one hundred feet of subjacent 

 stratified red sandstone have been lifted up, one hundred 

 feet or more, on the irregular, conical top of an immense 

 volcanic rock, the whole width of the island in extent. At 

 this, its east side, the base rook has a perpendicular front 

 extending ed. and probably an equal depth 



downward. The stratified rock lies upon it like a pile of 

 hoards upon a knoll, as if purposely put there to illustrate 

 geological teachings. This rock was at one time an immense 

 solid mass, but is now cleft in some places by subsequent 

 volcanic action, or, possibly, fey the cooling process: tor it 

 shows to the merest geological "tyro that it was once a molten 

 mass. On the north side of the island the base rook ex- 

 hibits itself in the form of consolidated streams of lava radi- 

 ating from tho shore as hill spurs, which descend at various 

 angles from the face of the bold shore down to and boneath 

 the water. At this point we found further evidence of vol- 

 canic operations subsequent to those which gave the island 

 its position and form, for veins of different minerals are 

 here found traversing the mass. "We found a very delicate 

 vein of sulphuret of f ead — galena ore — and came upon a place 

 where a shaft and seventy thousand dollars were sunk at one 

 time in search of copper! from the excavation we selected 

 some specimens of yellow sulphuret of iron -"Fools' Gold—" 

 which might readily be mistaken for copper ore. Indeed, 

 it would appear that there was never any copper obtained in 

 this place, notwithstanding the immense outlay. The own- 

 er of the location doubtless had employed a practical 

 miner to explore, and when he came upon the yellow ore he 

 pronounced it yellow sulphuret of copper, from which it is 

 impossible to distinguish it except by chemical tests, of 

 which the miner was evidently ignorant." Thus through the 

 want of five dollars' worth of chemistry, they spent seventy 

 thousand of gold. 



In this immediate vicinity there is a vein of rock iron ore, 

 and also a vein of asbestos, the material of which the 

 ancients manufactured the indestructible or fireproof cloth 

 in which they enveloped the bodies of their dead previous 

 to cremation, in order to preserve their ashes. The, asbestos 

 found here, however, is of inferior quality, having but a 

 very short fibre and being of a brownish color. Tho vein 

 has been worked down so low that tourists cannot obtain any 

 directly from it, and are obliged, if they desire specimens, 

 to obtain in Marquette. It is said that the common red chalk 

 of commerce can be obtained in large quantities a few miles 

 further up the shore. 



After enjoying our trip round the part of the island, or 

 peninsula rather, which has just been described, and our 

 .'-ie;ee Ob i.aiely refusing any compensation for the 

 trouble we had given him, we returned to Marquette, well 

 pleased with the visit to I'resque Isle, and a hearty apprecia- 

 tion of the kindness of its Occupant. He sent his boat and 

 two servants to take us all the way back — five miles — though 

 they had to row both going and returning. And here I may 

 add a few words on boating and fishing, and tho way to do 

 both with the least trouble." 



There are always plenty of vessels lying idle inthe harbor, 

 and from almost any of these a boat and crew can be ob- 

 tained much more cheaply than from the fishermen of the 

 town. There is some, but very poor, fishing in the harbor; 

 the general resort, therefore, is the Chocolate, a river four 

 miles below the town, or tho lakes on the Carp Itivcr, up 

 near the mines. To reach the latter, the angler should take 

 an early morning train and go r.o Negauneo; then'oeit is only 

 three miles, or from the Iron Mountain mine two miles, to 

 one of the little lakes where Sahno JanOnUiis are obtained in 

 ei ni i '''■'■". A good day's sport mav be enjoyed and 

 i ,n time in return b. Ke-gaunee 'and take the eve- 

 ning trainto Marquette, with rmappetite quite commensurate 

 with a good long string of the speckled edibles. I will say 

 e is if the tourist is a "worm fisherman," as our 

 half-breed calls those who angle with worms, he must pie- 

 vide himself with the squirmers before starting fOJ 



Before leaving Marquette I will give you some more 

 statistics of the town as it was in '00. I have already intro- 

 duced you ball - : . in abifo 1 places in the county, and 

 now I will tell yi.u that the whole population was at that 

 time onlv about three thousand soul.-,. There were three 

 nice little church edifices, though but two clergymen. There 

 was a neat flame conn-house, but onlv two law Vers: four 



rhd two drug stores; wMoh latter struck me as a 



large complement for a region so vaunted for its healthful- 

 ness. Mr Stafford the principal druggist, and still a resi- 

 dent, isa c .. tc e 1 pharmacist, and is both oblig- 



ing and gBB -! A ■■■■ horn he comes in contact. 



Lh\ Jones possi seed a very lino private geological cabinet 

 and scientific libratj . Although an amateur in the science, 

 he proved a valuable acquaintance to those desiring to post 

 up on the subject; I believe lie is no longer a resident of 

 Marquette. If Dr. Keeker is still a resident, he will be 

 found a skillful botanist, and a willing and able assistant to 

 any one desirous oi studying the flora of the district. To 

 the mdre exclusive! | -. the town library may 



lie easily made access! le I ivas fi eely offered the use of it 

 before having been in fllG place i v. only-four hours. Whoever 

 selected it deserves great praise; and if in this centennial 

 year the library has grown in proportion as it has gathered 

 age, and all additions have been as well selected as in former 

 days, it must be the best in the State: for at that time, both 

 in 'number of v. ilnmes and the matter contained, it was far 

 ahead of any town or city in Michigan in proportion to 

 population. 



Marquette possesses one printing-office, two foundries, 

 one machine, three blacksmith, and three butcher shops; a 

 bakery, one jewelry um hardware, and three geaei tstores, 

 besides groceries and Yankee notion establishments. The 

 land office of theSatdt Canal Company, the railwa 

 offices and shops, and toe offices, warehouses and docks of 

 the mining companies are all located here. There is also a 

 studio of portrait and landscape oil painting and two pho- 

 tographers. 



Now, having staid long enough here, we get aboard the 

 Northern Light on her upward "trip, and leave Marquette 



with well grounded fears that our lines will not fall in a 

 pleasant places in our tour farther north. We leave between 

 ■ id morning, and lest such ill-timed hours shonld 

 grate upon the feelings of our readers with more regular 

 habits, we will imagine ourselves in the same place again, 

 seeking our state-rooms, and bidding each and all good 

 night. 



1 »■»■ 



THE RANGEL5Y LAKE REGION. 



BY THOIIAS SEDGWICK 3TEETJ3. 



i n I •I'rljrom oar last issue.) 



Camt Kjunnbbigo, ExNOEt.Ev, Me., Sept. 14. 



A angler's sueeess in landing trout depends very Ere- 

 v uently on tho quick wits of his guide, and a blunder- 

 ing, stupid guide is worse than none at all, as he will loBe 

 yon many a fish. We have no Indian guides at camp, so 

 that little romance of life in the woods is all lost: but our 

 men are principally from this immediate section of the 

 country, who spend their winters cutting lumber, or "log- 

 ging," as it is called, and their summers farming or 

 "guiding,"whieh latter employment they much prefer. Some 

 of them are "mighty hunters," and have tramped these 

 woods in all directions in search of game. The state of 

 Maine offers ten dollars a head for all bears killed within 

 its limits, and one of the guides last winter earned fifty 

 dollars pursuing that exciting occupation. 



Deer and caribou are to be found near camp, but the 

 former are not so plenty as in the Adirondacks. There are 

 also any amount of grouse and gray squirrels. 



When assembled around our big camp fire the variety of 

 hunting suits is quite noticeable. Some wear corduroy, 

 others velveteen or moleskin, but, for the vicissitudes of a 

 hunter's life, give me buckskin, on account of its toughness 

 and flexibility. 



One of the favorite fishing localities is Cupsuptuc Falls, 

 some ten miles to the north from camp, on the Cupsuptuc 

 stream. The river rises near the Canada line and flows 

 south through dense woods, and finally empties itself into 

 the lake bearing the same name. The falls are about three 

 miles from its month and are very picturesque, with high, 

 precipitous walls of rock on each side, and near the foot is a 

 "jam" of logs made by the late freshets, and where the bowB 

 oi' two unfortunate "bafceaus" can be seen protruding, relics 

 of the log-drivers' veuturesomeness. 



The proportions of the large fish vary greatly. A trout 

 over two pounds can be almost any shape, and the writer 

 has, among a large collection, an outline of a ten-pounder 

 which is almost as broad as it is long. To grow old grace- 

 fully is very essential to one's happiness in this life, but with 

 a trout that idea seems to trouble his brain but little. In 

 some the weight runs toward the head, and in others in the 

 opposite direction, while the thickness of the back fre- 

 quently makes up for the length of the fish. I have said 

 that the color of most of these Eangeley trout always pro- 

 vokes our admiration, and an artist who portrays them in 

 their most gorgeous colors mils'. \ I itana any amount 



of criticism, in Sol f these fish the strong red or yellow 



color sweeps from above the lateral line, oast tho ventral 



fins, and entirely underneath, Leaving none of the white 



which usually marks the belly of the fish, while it is not 

 unusual to find the bright Vermillion spots on the dorsal 

 fins. The trout in Ihe IJangcley stream ,. i ■ . able for 



their silvery appearance, and the flesh is frequently as white 

 as that of shad, but i here ig no difference in the taste. The 

 trout often assume a peculiar purple, mid sometimes a steel 

 like appearance, but this is innch more noticeable as they 

 increase in size. 



In order to give you items of our present daily experience 

 at camp, I shall turn back to my diary of the past week, 

 commencing with Sunday, September Uth, which was a clear, 

 bright, exhilarating day,' the thermometer at six a. m. indica- 

 ting thirty-five degrees. We ei ,es u greater 

 part of the day singing hymns, chatting about the religions 

 topics of the day, and writing letters to our friends at Don 

 informing them of our safe arrival at camp. It is generally 

 OUT good fortune to lmce a minister in the company, and 

 have a regular service on the Sabbath. We well remember 

 the delightful sermon preached to us last year, by the Kev. 

 J. 11. Twichell of Hartford, and how in blue ilannel shirts 

 and hunting suits, from minister down to every member of 

 tlu- .■iingi-ega! iiiu, we participated in the service's. 



there is nothing like a. blue flannel shirr to bring nature 

 down to a grand level, and "biled" shirts are never allowed 

 at this camp except it may bo occasionally on Sunday, 



Monday, the 7th inst., with am rods over our shoulders. 

 WS repaired to the Ilangoley stream and fveTiTisbagu Rapids, 

 bill were not rewarded with the sueeess I I antici- 



pated. At noun it e.immeneed to rain, which, by the way, 

 is the only storm we have had during our entire stay at 



ii i| The afternoon was spent reading, sketching and 

 telling stories of our angling experience in other parts of the 

 country. 



Un Tuesday, the 8th inst., four of UB arranged to] a two 

 days' expedition way back in the woods, a long distance from 

 this permanent camp, our object being fur and feather rather 

 than fin, although we fished all the mi across the lake 

 our temporary camp at Stony Batter, which was the singular 

 name of our destination. VVe arrived at the place at nofl 



had lunch, and leaving one of the guides to Jilt up I 



tents, put ouiselvcB under the -lem- ..: : !,.-, guide, 



loaded our rifles and shot guns, and '.vi-i'r soon deep in tho 

 woods. 



To those who are unacquainted With a bough ti at orcaBip 

 I would say for their information that the following U H 

 simple construction; Two sticks are cui, rj ■ , m 



placed in front iuid notched at t : i eil - mi i.-s. at the top 



of which is fastened another. Then other poles some six 

 feet long extend from these to the ground at the rear, and 

 OS them are laid boughs of pine and other trees, forming a 

 pleasant camp in good weather, but in stones notremark- 

 ably water-proof unless some additions are made. Qui beds 

 mposed of cedar boughs (the delightful odor of 

 which will put life, int., B Be we 



laid our rubber and other blankets. Then placing our 

 cuoking utensils in then tei I I ilaoefl, el US house- 



keeping in good earnest. Two oi these huts were built, one 

 for ourselves m 1 ■ I ■■ 01 I -.-.-.. 



But I must ovi who 



Were searching in vam .-. tpon - * locate .-.onis- 



where in this ric oil I > n ribouantj : m congregated 

 in large numbers. For two long hours we tramped 0V| 

 fallen "trees, through, bogs, and down the slippery rocks, 

 crossing and recrossing caribou and deer tracks, and at one 



lOtioed large fresh excavation B EU guide 



told us) by a bear and onbaic itieir .,eureh for coi ' 



