10 BIRDS OF RUSSIAN LAPLAND 



two, each about 33 inches long and fine deep-beUied fish. Then a 

 younger Russian, whose curly black hair stuck out in all directions 

 from under his cap, put the fish in a sack, the sack on a small sledge, 

 and the sledge in a little tub of a boat nearly as broad as long; 

 finally pulling away up the fjord. I did not envy him his trudge over 

 the sloppy ice, dragging that sledge to the monastery. 



Near the house were fifteen to twenty Shore-Larks Otocorys 

 alfestris, feeding on a small piece of uncovered ground ; while two 

 White Wagtails flitted about from doorstep to water-trough as tame 

 as London sparrows. The first Merganser Mergus serrator we had 

 seen this year rose near the shore as we rowed in from the ship. 

 Except these and a stray Herring-Gull, the place was a desert to-day 

 as far as bird-life was concerned. We could scarcely expect it to be 

 otherwise when the whole country, except the Shore-Larks' patch, 

 was buried under two or three feet of snow ! And this on the 2nd 

 of June. 



After floundering through heavy snow for some distance, we at 

 last got on to higher ground where the snow was firmer, and from the 

 top of the ridge a good view was obtained of the country on the west 

 side of the fjord. In the valley below us were several small lakes 

 covered with ice and snow, and beyond a series of hills, none more than 

 400 or 500 feet high, stretched to the horizon; there appeared to be 

 very little level ground. The only living things seen were some tame 

 reindeer, obtaining a scanty meal where the wind had partly cleared 

 the snow from the hillsides. On our return a Finn came on board 

 with a salmon for sale ; the fish, which was in good condition, mea- 

 sured 44f in. by 9 in. deep, and, after some bargaining, became mine 

 for five roubles. The thermometer remained near 32° all day, and 

 the tap of the water-filter on deck was frozen. 



On the 3rd we climbed the hills on the east side of the fjord to 

 obtain a view of its upper end, and were much cheered to see a con- 

 siderable stretch of open water where the river entered. Still, the 

 two or three miles of ice between must be strong yet, as two men 



