BIRDS OF RUSSIAN LAPLAND 41 



luggage, and two with goods for the monastery — quite an imposing 

 cavalcade. Our carriage had a small high perch in front for the 

 driver, and behind it an arrangement like an Irish car with room for 

 two on each side, but I decided to put Ivan with his many odours on 

 a board behind, using his seat for the camera. There were no springs 

 — none would have stood more than a few miles of that road — but the 

 body of the carriage was secured on two long poles which took off much 

 of the jarring, and kept the two pairs of small wheels so far apart that 

 they were rarely in the same quagmire at once. 



That was the most awful so-called road I ever saw, read of, or 

 dreamt of ; and the driver's anxiety to have light loads for his horses 

 was amply justified. There were long stretches of peaty bog where 

 the little wheels sank to the axles, varied by even deeper and softer 

 holes ; other parts had been patched with tree stems and branches 

 like an American corduroy road. Steep gulleys often intervened ; 

 some with deep loose sand almost more trying to our good little 

 horses than the bogs ; others of harder material, down which the 

 driver went at a wild gallop that shook us up like parched peas, and 

 threatened to pitch us off many times in a minute. Experience 

 must have taught the Russians that this form of carriage is the 

 easiest to leave in a difficulty ! Charles and I walked quite two- 

 thirds of 2 5 versts, but not Ivan ! his ride was paid for, and I expect 

 he did not often enjoy one. However, I made him walk when the 

 driver did, and when that happened, the carriage alone was quite 

 enough for the horses. It is only right to say that this was just in 

 the middle of the Russian thaw, and the road was distinctly better on 

 our return. 



At three we came to a half-way house — the only building seen on 

 the whole road — -where the man cooked us some good salmon ; and as 

 our lunch was in the first cart, long since left behind, the salmon was 

 most acceptable. At last we reached the monastery, the six hours 

 spent in driving 17 miles being an eloquent testimony to the con- 

 dition of the road. As I propose to devote a future chapter to this 



