44 BIRDS OF RUSSIAN LAPLAND 



It was after 2 p.m. when we began to stir. As soon as breakfast 

 was over, Ivan went to the head of the lake for a third boat ; it was 

 little better than the others, for all the boats are left exposed to the 

 winter frost, which opens their seams ; the last coat of wood-tar they 

 had received was when they were built, and they only varied in their 

 degrees of rottenness. Crossing the lake, we walked up the east bank 

 through an open wood of birch (amongst which were scattered a few 

 Scotch firs) to the head of the lake. Here were two wooden huts 

 (Plate 1 4) and several wretched little shelters — conical heaps of birch 

 boughs with a creep-hole on one side, where some of the poorer people 

 pass the winter. By a liberal use of red calico and other contrivances 

 I afterwards converted the best of the huts into a " dark room," where 

 I successfully changed the photo-films. Leaving the lake, we walked 

 up the west side of the river in hope of finding the other lakes shown 

 on Rae's map. Unfortunately, Einar had remained in camp to rest 

 after yesterday's exertions, so we could only communicate with Ivan 

 by signs. The ground was dreadful to walk over, being almost entirely 

 composed of large boulders like those on the hills above Lutni (see 

 1 901), but covered here with heavy moss, so that we never knew 

 where to tread safely. The river was a broad rapid stream with a 

 few large pools that would have made a fisherman's heart rejoice. 

 We afterwards learnt from Ivan there are " plenty salmon " here in 

 latter part of July and August when he and his family come up to 

 net them ; there are also " plenty mosquitoes " then, and the condition 

 of a nice fat tender- skinned Englishman after two or three weeks here 

 at that time of the year would probably wring sympathy from even 

 his bitterest enemy. Of bird-life there was none for several miles 

 beyond a few Willow- Wrens. 



We passed two small waterfalls, the upper one of which is 

 shown in Plate 1 5 ; Ivan said salmon could get up both the falls 

 when there was enough water. And then, it being 1 1 p.m., and no 

 lakes to be seen, we decided to have lunch and turn towards camp. 

 Just then two Velvet Scoters flew over and settled in a marsh behind ; 



