ii8 BIRDS OF RUSSIAN LAPLAND 



up to the town, and during the next seven weeks we received 

 unceasing kindness and assistance from him, for which I take this 

 opportunity of expressing our thanks. I would strongly advise any 

 Englishmen proposing to visit Kola to place themselves in his care, 

 and get him to arrange for their lodgings &c. Mr. Skjcerseth's 

 father came to Kola some forty years ago, and commenced business, 

 in which he evidently prospered ; the son has now the largest store 

 in the place and supplies all the possible wants of the inhabitants. 

 On reaching Kola, Mr. Skjoerseth — pronounced Shearset — took us 

 first to see the rooms he had engaged at the eastern extremity of 

 the town, and close to the Kola river. Then he carried us off to his 

 own house — or rather a hired one, for his is being rebuilt this year — 

 for supper ; and a very good supper he gave us, with Scotch whisky 

 of the quality Scotchmen take out " for fishing," not that exported 

 for commercial purposes. Our host spoke English well, but finding 

 Musters spoke Norwegian even better, he often lapsed into it. 



I must say a word here about our rooms which compared 

 favourably with our last cabin on board ship, for they were absolutely 

 clean in every corner. The day-room measured 20 feet by 20 feet, 

 and the bedroom 20 feet by 1 5 feet; a large archway connecting 

 the two rooms. Mr. Skjoerseth had sent two iron bedsteads with 

 comfortable spring mattresses for our use ; and our host's appearance 

 every morning with tea when he called us, savoured rather of 

 England than the wilds of Russia. The man seemed to be well- 

 to-do, and owned several cows ; he was employed in some way in 

 looking after the interests of the Lapps, but we never could get any 

 clear understanding about his duties. His wife was a clean pleasant- 

 looking woman, but very delicate — too many children. Cooking here 

 was the chief difficulty; the greater part had to be done on the 

 spirit lamp. 



It is not generally known, I believe, that most of this country 

 belongs to the Lapps, and not to the Russians. The latter own Kola 

 and a small stretch of flat land behind it ; but beyond that, rivers, 



