BIRDS OF RUSSIAN LAPLAND 167 



2 a.m. when the steamer at last appeared out of the fog and rain, but 

 we occupied the time of waiting by going over the sawmill described 

 on May 1 7th. All the men and machinery were at work when Ave 

 arrived at i a.m. 



July 7th. — Like the previous Russian steamer, there were two coats 

 of dirt over most things, and the sanitary arrangements left much to 

 be desired. I had the pleasure of meeting again the head of Saint 

 Triphon's Monastery, who presented me with his portrait (reproduced 

 on Plate 63). A number of the monks and servants of the monastery 

 came to receive him when we anchored in Pechenga gulf. We landed 

 for an hour and walked up the Triphona river. A Wood- Sandpiper 

 seemed to have young in a small marsh, and both Meadow and Red- 

 throated Pipits were anxious about the safety of their families. We 

 arrived at Vardo at eleven the next morning, to find there was no 

 mail steamer for the south till midnight of the 9th, so we devoted 

 most of our time to the Snow-Buntings, hoping for late nests. We 

 found two among the rocks at the back of the town, the first con- 

 taining six eggs, and the second four, all much incubated. Young 

 birds were on the wing. 



July gtk. — We spent all the morning on the point beyond the 

 Governor's house, and found a number of birds there, Wheatears, 

 Mealy Redpolls, Meadow, Rock, and Red-throated Pipits, Snow-Buntings, 

 Shore-Larks, &c. Two Common Eiders were sitting, but most of them 

 had their young on the sea. Many young Snow-Buntings were flying 

 about the rocks, so we were fortunate in finding another nest with five 

 eggs not so incubated as those of yesterday. 



We had heard that the S.Y. America was expected from Arch- 

 angel, where she had gone to complete her equipment of ponies, 

 dogs, and arctic stores ; and saw her steam into the harbour while we 

 were searching for Snow-Buntings. So, as soon as dinner was over — 

 said to commence at 2, but rarely ready before 2.30, and extending to 

 3.30 — we went on board, and were warmly welcomed by Captain Cofijn 

 and Mr. Champ. The latter, Mr. Zeigler's private secretary, I had spent 



