154 GRAND CANON DISTRICT. 



the sun; but it seems also to be denser and more concentrated than 

 elsewhere. This is really a delusion arising from the fact that the 

 enormous magnitude of the chasm and of its component masses dwarfs 

 the distances; we are really looking through miles of atmosphere under 

 the impression that they are only so many furlongs. This apparent con- 

 centration of haze, however, greatly intensifies all the beautiful or mys- 

 terious optical effects which are dependent upon the intervention of 

 the atmosphere. 



Whenever the brink of the chasm is reached the chances are that the 

 sun is high and these abnormal effects in full force. The canon is asleep. 

 Or it is under a spell of enchantment which gives its bewildering mazes 

 an aspect still more bewildering. Throughout the long summer fore- 

 noon the charm which binds it grows in potency. At midday the clouds 

 begin to gather, first in fleecy flecks, then in cumuli and throw their 

 shadows into the gulf. At once the scene changes. The slumber of the 

 chasm is disturbed. The temples and cloisters seem to raise themselves 

 half awake to greet the passing shadow. Their wilted, drooping, flat- 

 tened faces expand into relief. The long promontories reach out from 

 the distant wall as if to catch a moment's refreshment from the shade. 

 The colors begin to glow ; the haze loses its opaque density and becomes 

 more tenuous. The shadows pass, and the chasm relapses into its dull 

 sleep again. Thus through the midday hours it lies in fitful slumber, 

 overcome by the blinding glare and withering heat, yet responsive to 

 every fluctuation of light and shadow like a delicate organism. 



As the sun moves far into the west the scene again changes, slowly 

 and imperceptibly at first, but afterwards more rapidly. In the hot 

 summer afternoons the sky is full of cloud-play and the deep flushes 

 with ready answers. The banks of snowy clouds pour a flood of light 

 sidewise into the shadows and light up the gloom of the amphitheaters 

 and alcoves, weakening the glow of the haze and rendering visible the 

 details of the wall faces. At length as the sun draws near the horizon 

 the great drama of the day begins. 



Throughout the afternoon the prospect has been gradually growing 

 clearer. The haze has relaxed its steely glare and has changed to a veil 

 of transparent blue. Slowly the myriads of details have come out and 

 the walls are flecked with lines of minute tracery, forming a diaper of 

 light and shade. Stronger and sharper becomes the relief of each pro- 

 jection. The promontories come forth from the opposite wall. The win- 

 uous lines of stratification which once seemed meaningless, distorted, and 

 even chaotic, now range themselves into a true perspective of graceful 

 curves, threading the scallop edges of the strata. The colossal buttes 

 expand in every dimension. Their long narrow wings, which once were 

 folded together and flattened against each other, open out, disclosing 

 between them vast alcoves illumined with Kembrandt lights tinged with 

 the pale refined blue of the ever-present haze. A thousand forms, hith- 

 erto unseen or obscure, start up within the abyss, and stand forth in 



