ORTOLAN BUNTING. 6*7 



the hair-like lines that distinguish most species of the Bunt- 

 ing family, but some eggs of this species possess such cha- 

 racteristic lines more or less. 



The food of the Ortolan, which is entirely sought upon the 

 ground, consists of insects, farinaceous grain, and seeds ; for 

 the latter they frequent in summer fields of corn of various 

 kinds ; also hemp and millet, of which it is very fond. 



These Buntings are quiet, peaceable, and harmless, and 

 when caged have so little activity, and take so readily the food 

 set before them, that the delicacy of their flesh, and the 

 facility of fattening them, cause them to be much sought after 

 for the table. From the times of Roman luxury to the 

 present these birds have been highly esteemed : even La 

 Fontaine's city rat in the fable is not ignorant of this 

 epicurean treat, since he invites his country friend to partake 

 with him of " reliefs (F or talaris" * as something superex- 

 cellent. The usual method of fattening them for the table is 

 by keeping them in a room lighted only by lamps, which are 

 kept constantly burning, so that the poor little prisoners can- 

 not distinguish night from day, and being enticed by tempt- 

 ing and varied food, are kept continually feeding until they 

 become so fat that, unless killed, suffocation would ensue. 

 By these means they are in three days ready, and in this short 

 space of time are become completely balls of fat, weighing 

 about three ounces each, being double their natural size. 

 Thus their easy temper, and the facility with which these poor 

 little creatures resign themselves to captivity, cause their 

 speedy destruction. In the Lausitz, in Germany, were 

 formerly several establishments for catching and feeding these 

 delicacies. 



This species is the Green-headed Bunting of Bewick and 

 Latham, and as such has long been known to be an occasional 

 and rare visitant on these shores. It appears to have been 



* Le rat de ville et le rat des champs. 



f2 



