1852.] A Journey through Si/dm. 483 



we are weather bound ; our great object now is to see what we have 

 so nearly reached. How I long to see that mountain Kanchanjhow 

 from the plain of Phaloong, described to be such a glorious sight by 

 Hooker ! The character of the rain fall here is different from that 

 farther south — at Darjeeling for instance. It is lighter and drizzling, 

 accompanied by a thin grey mist, and this was equally the case in 

 July when Hooker was here for 7 days. 



There is no cultivation of any kind here at present, nor was there 

 in July. The land about the village has the appearance of having 

 been sometime ago terraced for cultivation, and wheat was grown here 

 when the Thibetans held it. Turnips grow, I believe, but nothing 

 else is tried by the present inhabitants, who are obstinately idle and 

 lazy : a few beautiful purple primroses are still in flower in sheltered 

 places, but the winter is setting in rapidly. Ther. at 1 1 a. m. 41°. 

 During the night it fell to 39°. At noon 37° — heavier rain and sleet : 

 at 4 p. m. 34°, and snow. Some of our servants have suddenly got 

 dropsical swellings of the face and feet, which they attribute to the 

 great cold. These swellings are not attended by any pain or fever, 

 but merely with lassitude and want of appetite. What will become 

 of these cold-stricken creatures if we get into Thibet ? I have lost 

 two goats since yesterday : the symptoms were those of poisoning, 

 saliva running from the mouth and nostrils, swelling of the stomach 

 and constant bleating. The Tendook aconite is abundant here, and the 

 leaves of one of the rhododendrons are poisonous for cattle ; it is 

 named the " Kema Kechoong."* The smoke of its wood is very 

 pungent and swells the eyelids. The juniper wood makes by far the 

 pleasantest fire ; it burns clearly and quickly, with a fragrant odour and 

 with very little smoke or ashes. This is important when you have 

 the fire as we have it, on the middle of the floor of a small hut with- 

 out any chimney. The openings in the shingle roof however are 

 numerous and serve for smoke vents, as well as for leaks and light 

 holes. The Doongshing, Webbiana pine is the wood most used for 

 shingles, being the easiest worked, and lasts 3 to 4 years. The juniper 

 shingles last longer ; but the wood is harder, and these people avoid 

 labour to the utmost extent possible, every thing beyond looking after 



* Rhodo Cinnabarinun. — Hooker. 



