488 A Journey through Sikim. [No. 6. 



The contrast between the climate of this elevated region, and that 

 of the central portion or' Sikim is most remarkable at this season. 

 Here the rain never falls heavily, the air is dry and bracing, and the 

 sun's rays have an immediate effect in melting the recently fallen snow, 

 and drying the ground. The pasture ground is very peculiar, and 

 altogether different from what I had anticipated. I looked for undu- 

 lating tracts of rich and luxuriant grass extending along the base of 

 the perpetual snow, but with the exception of Phaloong, the grazing 

 grounds are almost precipitously steep. They are every where covered 

 with numerous herbs, many small, grass-like sedges, and only a few 

 tufts of grass ; this sort of vegetation, interspersed with the strong- 

 scented dwarf rhododendrons, which at 16,000 feet and upwards cover 

 the ground like heather, and vary from a foot to four inches in height, 

 with bushes of dwarf juniper, barberry, rose, and rhododendron shrubs, 

 characterises the picturesque haunts of the fearless and steady-footed 

 yaks, goats and sheep of these regions. The yak delights in the 

 steepest places, and when seen on the mountain side at 1,000 feet or 

 more above you, they seem to the unpractised eye of a novice like 

 myself to be in constant danger of tumbling down: I have often 

 checked myself since our stay at Tungu from calling out to the Bho- 

 tias to remove the yaks from the dangerous-looking places in which 

 they graze. Aconites, dandelion, cowslips, a beautiful blue gentian, 

 astragali, primroses, potentillas, and a large-leafed sage, are some of 

 the numerous herbs which form the rich pasture in this direction, and 

 all — except the aconites, which are carefully avoided by all native 

 animals, — are eaten by the cattle, the condition of wliich is excellent, 

 and the milk of the richest and purest quality. 



October \5th. 



A beautiful morning, and we at once decided on moving upwards, 

 the Lama and the Lachen Phipun being appointed to take the Camp 

 close up to the Kangra Lama Pass, while we were to spend the day at 

 Phaloong, and see all the mountains which were but partially visible 

 on the 13th, and join them in the evening. For this purpose, we 

 started at 7 a. m. by the route already described, and soon reaching 

 Phaloong, came upon such a scene as I never even imagined, and never 

 saw anything to equal. 



First of all, to the north there was the beautiful Kanchanjhow 



