1852.] A Journey through Sikim. 497 



after my long and elevated work ; all my servants and coolies worse 

 off from the same cause, and the extreme cold, some of them being 

 very ill indeed and unable to move. They have come over Kangra 

 Lama, 16,000 feet, and have ascended 6 or 800 feet more in coming 

 here, swollen faces and inflamed eyes are numerous among them. My 

 own face and eyes are quite red and much inflamed. The glare from 

 Kanchanjhow was excessive, but I could not keep my eyes off, so 

 attractive was the novelty of being all day along the base of its per- 

 petual snow. Thermometer at 6 p. m. 34° ; a light breeze from the 

 south ; calm at 9 p. m. with a sky of the clearest blue. Temp, at 

 10 p. m. 26°. 



October 17 th. 



Halt at Yeumtso to see about us, and for Hooker's meteorological 

 observations, &c. Thermometer at 6 a.m. 10°. Wet bulb do. 9% ; 

 minimum temperature during the night 5°. A black bulb thermome- 

 ter placed in a radiating metallic bowl fell to 3°. Ther. in our small 

 tent at 6 a. m. 14°. The sun rose with us at 6 hours 40 minutes* 

 Heavy hoar frost on the grass, and the marshy pools along the Lachen 

 and close to us are frozen over since last evening. 



It is a brilliant morning with a light air from the north-east, and I 

 am enchanted with this near sight of Kanchanjhow. 



9 a. m. Ther. 32°, brilliant sunshine ; all my people and the Lama's 

 people also are very ill with head-ache and vomiting ; some of the 

 coolies have dropsical swellings of the face and feet, and none of them 

 can eat ; they lie on their faces and knees in the sun, pressing their 

 heads with their hands, and are quite as wretched as any sea-sick 

 people I ever saw. Hooker's fellows are well and lively. 



The Dingpun and his men have paid us a friendly visit in our tent. 

 We have regaled them all with snuff and rum and water. The few 

 English articles we have with us, have been much admired by them, 

 especially a detonating gun, pistols, telescope, and our broad-cloth coats. 

 I presented the Commandant with a Tartan shawl and some rupees for 

 a dinner to his men, which made them all vastly well pleased. The 

 Dingpun despatched a report of our progress to his superior officers at 

 Kambajong while in our tent. Went to the Yeumtso Lake with 

 Hooker, collected some minerals, found ice half an inch thick along its 

 margin at 11 a, m, ; reckon it to be three miles round or more, and 



