230 Notes on Eastern Thibet. [No. 3. 



Masons, carpenters and other artificers can earn from 8 as. to 

 1 Rupee a day in the towns ; common labourers three and two annas. 

 Gold and silversmiths are highly paid, 8 as. in the rupee for fine 

 work is the usual rate. 



Breads, Sfc. 



The bread is all unleavened, and cooked on heated stones or grid- 

 irons. The poorer people make their bread with coarse wheaten 

 flour and water, the better classes with fine flour and butter. The 

 latter description I have eaten ; it is a sort of heavy biscuit 

 made in a long twisted loaf-like shape. The sweet and pure fari- 

 naceous taste of the fine flour of Thibet equals the best Cape or 

 American flour. Rice is only eaten in Thibet by the Chinese, aud 

 the richer Bliotias. The whole supply is received from Bootan and 

 Sikim. The Thibetans do not cook and eat it plain as the Indians 

 and Chinese do, but make it up into large balls with butter and 

 sugar using it as a pudding and sweetmeat. The staple food of the 

 country is "Champa," called Suttoo in India; it is finely ground 

 flour of toasted barley. It is universally eaten and without addi- 

 tional cooking, and is excellently suited to the people of a country 

 which is so ill-supplied with fuel. Mixed up with hot tea and 

 formed into solid balls, it is called " Paak." Prepared with 

 lukewarm water, it is called Seu. Travellers often carry the 

 " Paak" ready made in skins, and eat it as they go along, but if 

 it is possible to get fuel, they prefer making a jorum of tea, and 

 having the paak warm and fresh. The Thibetans are great eaters 

 when they are in plenty. Tea is drunk at all houses, and at every 

 meal, and is regularly used four times a day, i. e. in the morning 

 early, about 8 A. M., at noon, and in the evening. Tor breakfast 

 which is always eaten at daylight and before washing of hands, face 

 or mouth, the favourite dish is Tookpa, a sort of broth, made with 

 mutton or yak's flesh, Champa, dry curds, butter, salt and tur- 

 nips. This is eaten without bread, and followed by a cup of scald- 

 ing tea. They never drink tea when it is the least cold, and if a 

 foreigner allows his cup to cool and then drinks it, he is considered 

 a very careless fellow. An attendant is always on the watch when 

 tea is being served, and as you proceed, he replenishes your cup with 

 a ladle or from the hot teapot until you cry " Hold, enough," or 



