1855.] Account of a visit to the Shrine of SakM Sarwar. 333 



months after heavy rains in the hills ; and consists of sand and peb- 

 bles with numerous boulders. In the months of June, July, and 

 August, this place must be a second Dadur ; and what with the 

 scarcity, as well as the badness of the water, must be fearful indeed. 

 There are a few Kunar, Graz, and Arak trees in the bed of the 

 river, but with this exception, all around is bare and stony. 



That side of the Zearat or Shrine, facing the bed of the river to 

 the north, and that to the west, rise abruptly to a considerable 

 height. These two sides are built up in the form of steps, seven- 

 teen in number, which are faced with lime and brick — the same 

 materials as the buildings belonging to the Zeffrat (described in a 

 subsequent paragraph) are composed of. These steps answer the 

 purpose of seats for the spectators at the Pair. 



The Fair does not commence in real earnest until to-morrow, 

 and from where my tent is pitched I cannot perceive many people. 

 There are however no less than seven whirligigs in full operation ; 

 and men and women— boys and girls, take their swing, and seem to 

 enjoy it greatly. There are also several dancing bears and mon- 

 keys ; and the usual accompaniment of tom-toms and other Indian 

 unharmonious musical instruments, whose din and discord seems 

 " to charm the savage breast." There used to be horse-races in 

 former times ; but this amusement has declined of late years, and 

 now is almost obsolete. 



Some of the Beluchis here amuse themselves with a very strange 

 and peculiar dance. About thirty or forty assemble together and 

 arrange themselves in a circle, each man with two pieces of wood 

 or two stones in his hand. Then placing the left foot forward they 

 commence to move along in an oblique direction by placing one foot 

 over the other. During the whole time one of the party — gener- 

 ally the one with the best voice — sings one of their rude songs of 

 love and war, the others keeping time by striking these strange 

 castanets together, and joining in chorus. Sometimes they turn 

 round, at others they meet ; and having half bent their bodies place 

 both hands over their heads. They then hiss at each other ; and 

 having again formed the ring they proceed as before described. 



This afternoon, attended by the liesaldar and a few Laghari 

 horsemen, I went up the Dalanah Pass into the hills for about nine 



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