20 THIRTY THOUSAND MILES IN CHINA 



the representations to be made to the Chinese authorities, 

 not with any view of claiming indemnity but of spurring them 

 on to more active measures for the suppression of such bands 

 in the interests of all good citizens, foreigners and Chinese 

 alike. The Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, who by the way 

 had been educated in Berlin and spoke German but not 

 English, promised to take such steps as were possible to 

 capture the culprits and to recover the property, but I felt 

 that the proposition was hopeless and have not been surprised 

 that no result has followed. 



Szechwan unfortunately has been in a very disturbed 

 state-, even at the Capital itself, for the last year and a half 

 and still is in some respects in several districts. This is due 

 not only to the maraudings of discontented soldiers turned 

 bandits, but also to the conflicting political aims of several 

 military leaders within Szechwan itself and also from Yunnan 

 who have been attempting to gain supremacy in this fairest 

 of the provinces. Meanwhile the people suffer. 



It would be very erroneous to infer, however, that there, 

 off the beaten track in China is entirely made up of incidents 

 like those just recorded. While many if not most innkeepers 

 and professional roadmen such as carters, muleteers, etc., are 

 ready to "do" the unwary traveller and to impose on him in 

 every way, still I have found many exceptions to this spirit 

 even among these classes, and from the peasant folk per se 

 I have never received any but the kindest and most helpful 

 treatment, being furnished food and shelter and guidance (for 

 raiment I always preferred to rely on my own "stock" — for 

 obvious reasons) not only on reasonable terms but often with 

 most positive refusal to accept any compensation. Off the 

 beaten track especially the native hospitality is most hearty 

 and sincere, tinged only with an element of curiosity concern- 

 ing the ways and things of the foreigner, which is only natural 

 under the circumstances. 



My first real experience with this element of curiosity 

 was on the west coast of the Island of Hainan. When ob- 

 serving near Hiongpo, I had erected as is usual for magnetic 

 work a small tent to shield my instruments from the sun. 

 A great crowd gathered to watch and it proved utterly im- 

 possible to keep them from pressing as close to the tent on all 

 sides as they could. Careful inspection showed that none 

 carried any iron articles. or implements and the only trouble 

 , came from their constant chatter, because during part of the 

 observations I had to listen io the tick of the box chronometer 

 placed some feet away and carry the tick in my head while 

 my eye was at the telescope pointed on the oscillating magnet. 

 The unexpected and strident noises which proceed from a 



