1G0 ' FORMOSA 



the savages on their native soil. My companion was a 

 worthy missionary, who had succeeded in establishing chapels 

 and gaining converts among the "tame" savages. 



For the first three days after leaving the treaty-port, our 

 route lay in a generally South and westerly direction across 

 elevated table-land, with intervening valleys of some miles 

 in breadth, running parallel to the coast, and in a high state 

 of cultivation. 



On the evening of the fourth day we found ourselves in 

 a village peopled by tame savages, amongst whom my com- 

 panion had laboured and who boast of a chapel of their own. 

 I was much struck with their kindly disposition, and parti- 

 cularly decorous and attentive behaviour at evening service. 

 They being in direct communication with the savages of the 

 woods, it was with some of their party that we expected to 

 resume our march on the morrow. 



Soon after daylight, therefore, we started with two of 

 them as guides, and pursued a path running up a rugged- 

 looking valley, bestrewed with boulders, and trending East, 

 towards the hills. By noon we reached a low line of hills, 

 and after some three hours of up and down work, we came 

 upon the first party of savages, who were on duty at a small 

 clearing where bartering was carried on between their people 

 and the Hakkas, but beyond which point the latter would 

 not dare to be caught. 



On seeing us, the savages, who had ugly-looking iron 

 knives in wooden sheaths hanging at their girdles, and who 

 were otherwise armed with long gingalls, jumped to their 

 feet. The men, small in stature, like the Malays, were 

 tattoed in one straight line, about half an inch in breadth, 

 right down the forehead to the bridge of the nose, and again 

 from the lower lip to the extremity of the chin; those who, 

 in raids against the Chinese, had been successful in bringing 

 home heads of any of their foes, were further tattooed in 

 parallel lines of the same breadth below the nipple of the 

 breast, each line representing a head brought home. 



Their clothing consisted of a sleeveless jacket, cut from 

 coarse cloth of their own make, and of a strip of the same 

 material bound round their loins. Nether garments and 

 shoes they had none. Nearly all the group were ornamented 

 with strings of very common-looking beads, which they, 

 nevertheless appeared to prize highly; and all were furnished 

 with short bamboo pipes, at which they sucked incessantly. 



The women, some of whom had sharply cut features and 



1 beautiful eyes, were tattooed in three lines from beneath the 



lobes of each ear across the cheek-bones to the centre of the 



>chin, the spaces between the broad lines being filled in with 



