THE ORCHID REVIEW. 217 
They like a liberal supply of water during summer, and during winter must 
not be allowed to become too dry. 
Referring again to Cattleya gigas and C. Warneri, a few more words 
may now be said, as this and the following month is the right time to 
repot, and the treatment in other ways is likewise very important during 
these two months. In the first place, let each plant be repotted, if desirable, 
when the new pseudobulb is completed and the new roots are just pushing. 
Similar compost and mode of potting as for other Cattleya is the best. I 
say “‘ potting,” though perhaps I should really say ‘‘ basketting ” ; for no 
doubt these two species flower much more freely when grown in baskets 
and suspended. After repotting, place the plants ina cool, well-ventilated 
house; but be careful to shade the plants for a week or two afterwards, 
until the roots are seen to take hold of the new compost, in order to avoid 
any possible check or undue loss of foliage. They soon recover from the 
effects of root disturbance at this season. If treated cool—that is to say, if 
an abundance of air is given—a second growth may generally be averted, 
though even then some few are almost sure to start again, which, however, 
need not cause any anxiety. If it occurs, continue to treat the plant exactly 
as though it remained dormant, simply ignoring the existence of a young 
break. Sooner or later this immature growth will form a little pseudobulb, 
leaving the plant free, at its proper time next season, to push forth other 
strong flowering-sized growths from other eyes. Trust to air, both night 
and day, to assist in preventing this second growth, but do not rely upon 
the withholding of water at the roots. Of course, less water should be 
given; but it is the same with Cattleyas as with Dendrobiums—water must 
not be withheld too suddenly when growth is finished, or the plants will 
quickly shrivel and receive a severe check, which may cause the very thing 
it is sought to prevent—i.c., the pushing of immature growth. It is in the 
dull days of winter when some Orchids may be kept absolutely dry with 
advantage, and not until then. If at this season any Orchid should appear 
to have finished its growth, it must still have water in reasonable quantity, 
the amount being reduced very gradually. 
Speaking of air, I am tempted to say a few more words. There can be 
no doubt whatever that, if properly used, air is the most valuable agent at 
the Orchid grower’s command; and I mention this fact once more lest it 
should be overlooked by new beginners. One may sometimes observe some 
‘species of Orchid, perhaps hailing from the East Indies, doing very well in 
hot, close structures, where but little attention is given to the subject of 
ventilation. But no good grower of Orchids will ever deny that for the cool 
and intermediate kinds, successful culture is due to a very large extent 
upon the systematic admittance of pure air. T his is no new doctrine. I 
remember, in my earliest career of Orchid growing, hearing that well-known 
and successful Orchid enthusiast, the late Mr. Dominy, relate how well his 
