THE ORCHID REVIEW. 367 
watered very sparingly, the warmth and moisture of this house being all 
that is required for-a time. If Dendrobiums-are given too much warmth 
and water at first the flower buds either turn to growths or become blind. 
Plants started now should flower in January. In point of beauty, too, D. 
nobile is difficult to surpass, and the hybrids from it, which are numerous, 
are an exceedingly useful class to grow, they all having the robust constitu- 
tion, free growth, and accommodating qualities of D. nobile, in a more or 
less degree. Prior to starting the plants, trim off aged and useless pseudo- 
bulbs, as after about the third year they are of little service to the leading 
portion, and may be removed. If desired to increase the stock, these old 
pseudobulbs should be cut in lengths of about three inches, and laid on 
damp sphagnum, when they propagate freely. The remaining bulbs should 
be well cleaned with a sponge to remove all traces of red spider. 
The short bulbed Mexican Lelias will make a good show of bloom this 
month. After blooming they enjoy a good rest, and in order that the air 
may circulate freely round them, ‘they are best suspended, if only for a 
month or two. The deciduous Calanthes will also be at their best, and the 
flowers will last in better condition if the plants are placed in intermediate 
temperature, and watered sparingly. Phalznopsis amabilis (grandiflora) 
and P. Aphrodite will also contribute their share of bloom, and are most 
useful at this season. Weakly plants should not be allowed to flower, as 
like all other Orchids, their sterling beauty is never seen until they have 
sufficient vigour to produce strong spikes. There is little or no fear of 
getting the temperature too hot for Phalznopsis, but the atmosphere should 
be moist and well ventilated throughout the year. Water during the winter 
with moderation. Angrecums are always beautiful and interesting, and 
many are now pushing flower spikes. These also delight in a moist, warm 
atmosphere. Cattleya Percivaliana is now showing for flower, and if 
subjected to a low temperature the buds fail to come to maturity. A steady 
warmth of about 60° is best. When Cattleyas are pushing for lower do not 
keep them too dry, but water moderately. 
The pretty little Sophronitis grandiflora will soon unfold its bright- 
~ coloured blossoms. I have previously advised a slightly warmer temperature 
than that afforded in the coolest house for this, which is well suited in a 
shady and very moist house. The species of Sophronitis do not take well 
to root disturbance, but repotting must occasionally be done. Small pans 
or baskets suspended are the best, and repotting should take place as soon as 
the flowers have faded. A variety known as S. grandiflora purpurea is very 
beautiful, but the flowers are much shorter lived than the typical form. It 
differs also from the latter in growth, chiefly by the pseudobulbs being 
inclined to be: flat and the leaves of greater substance besides, and having 
a more depressed style of growth. This variety is not nearly so hardy, and 
requires the warmth of the intermediate house. 
