08 THE ORCHID REVIEW. [APRIL, 1903. 
Shading will now be generally necessary, for at this time of year the 
foliage of Orchids is more likely to get scorched than at any other; this 
should be done first on the coolest houses, to serve the double purpose of 
protecting the plants from the sun, and to prevent, to a certain extent, an 
undesired rise in temperature. In the East Indian house, immediately the 
sun has sufficient power to raise the temperature six or ten degrees, the 
blinds should be lowered. In this house, containing, as it does, so many 
distinct species, it is difficult to attend to the requirements of each separate 
species as regards shading, but matters may be simplified by a little selection. 
Plants such as Dendrobiums, Catasetums, Mormodes, Diacrium bicornutum, 
Thunias, Calanthes, &c., should be placed in the lightest positions, while 
Cypripediums, Phalznopses, Aérides, Cirrhopetalums, Bulbophyllums, and 
the evergreen Calanthes, do best on the shady side. The occupants of the 
Cattleya house will not require shading quite so soon as the warmer growing 
species, but when the sun is bright it will be necessary. The Mexican house 
inmates will enjoy the increased sunlight, and if ventilation is properly 
attended to, the plants will only require to be thinly shaded during the 
middle of the day. 
It will be necessary to keep a continual guard against all destructive 
insect pests, for with the increased sun heat they will multiply rapidly. 
This is the time of year to prevent them obtaining a foothold amongst the 
plants, and the grower should try to exterminate them if possible. Black 
and yellow thrips are certainly the most troublesome insects, and every 
means should be employed to effect their destruction. Cleanliness is a great 
factor in good cultivation, and under good cultural conditions these pests are 
easily kept under with a little timely attention. 
By this time many of the Dendrobiums will have passed out of flower; 
and be starting to grow freely. Such as D. nobile and its allies, D. xX 
Ainsworthii, D. fimbriatum, D. pulchellum (Dalhousianum) do well in pots, 
while D. Wardianum, D. crassinode, D. Findlayanum, D. primulinum, 
D. Boxallii, D. Devonianum, D. tortile, and D. superbum succeed best in 
pans with perforations round the sides, through which the air circulates 
and helps to keep the roots in a healthy condition. In preference I use 
these pans generally, instead of ordinary teak baskets, as the plants are more 
easily managed when more root roomis necessary. In repotting established 
plants, do not remove more of the old material than is necessary, as 
Dendrobiums dislike their roots to be disturbed. Carefully break the old 
pot, taking away as much of it as possible, and if the drainage be well filled 
with roots, do not disturb it, but place the whole together into a size larger 
pot, filling up with clean broken crocks to within an inch of the rim. The 
compost used may consist of two parts chopped sphagnum moss, to one 
part each of leaf-soil and fibrous peat, with the addition of finely broken 
