Feb. 2.2, 1883.] 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



65 



have until we sighted Cape Sable, Jitter leaving Key West. 

 Jack, catching ffie inspiration of the theme, mounted tb£ 

 cabin roof , Wftved hifl lmnd toward the distant peninsula, 

 seen through tlto fast-closing gap between the keys, and 

 dramatically declaimed : 



"Adieu, ailieu! my native shorn 

 Fades c/er the waters blue.'" 



"Ta. ta! Jack," said Squire, "I'll see you later; 'smother 

 evening'" 



But Jack was not to lie smothered in -any such manner, 

 and continued; 



"O'er the waters of the dark blue ses. 

 I an thoughts as boundless and our souls ;e- i , .-. 

 Far as the hreeze can bear, (be billows EOMtl 

 Survey our empire, and behold our home." 



"If you want any surveying done, cull on Mr. Gwynu, 

 here; lie is county surveyor of Monroe county, as well as 

 Mayor of Key West, and has jurisdiction all along these 

 keys!" 



Tlie wind continued to freshen, bringing in a long-rolling 

 sea between the outlying reel's, which caused Jack to seek 

 the cabin and his bunk ; so we had no more poetry that day. 



We were now opposite Ca. ysi'ort Reef Lighthouse, which 

 is twenty-three miles S. by W. from Fowey Kocks Light. 

 It shosvs a. bright flash every half minute, visible some se\ - 

 enteen miles. Key Largo is some twenty miles long, has 

 a number of settlers on it, and some large pineapple planta- 

 tions, the largest being those of Mr, Baker. These keys 

 are, most of tiicm, thickly wooded with a variety of hard 

 timber, buttonwood, erabwood, hay, palmetto, etc., with a 

 fringe of mangroves. Several vessels were in sight, in the 

 channel and outside the reefs. Those meeting us were heal- 

 ing northward under reefed canvas, but the Rambler, with 

 the wind abaft the beam, had just enough for her cruising 

 rig, and went howling along with every thread drawing in 

 the spanking breeze. We passed in succession, leaving 

 them all to starboard, Rodriguez and Tavcrnier keys — both 

 small ones — and Plantation, Vermont, Tipper and Lower 

 Mattacombc and Umbrella keys. Indian Key, a small, but 

 high and prominent one, came next, where there is good 

 anchorage and a number of large cisterns, whore water can 

 be purchased by passing vessels. Southwest of Indian Key 

 is Alligator Reef Lighthouse, thirty-one miles S. W, J S, 

 from Carysfort Reef Light, it is an iron frame pyramid, 

 showing a scintillating light flashing every live seconds, 

 every sixth Hash being red. These lighthouses, built on 

 submerged reefs by iron screw piles, are completely iso- 

 lated, their keepers being shut off from all communication 

 with the keys except by boats, lead a very secluded and. 

 semi-hermit life, while exposed to the fury" of tierce gales 

 aud the lashing of the angry seas. 



The Florida keys are now nearly all inhabited, and new 

 buildings were being erected on'many of them, owing to 

 the "cocoanut boom." These keys were all being taken up, 

 pre emptcd, leased or bought, principally by Key West par- 

 ties, aud set out to cocoanut trees. As these trees will grow 

 wherever there is soil enough on these rocky keys, aud re- 

 quire little or no care after heiag planted, and as each tree 

 is said to pay at least a dollar and a half per annum after 

 sis years old, it will be' Been that a few thousand trees 

 would yield a small bonanza in a few years, if all accounts 

 are true. On some of the keys are groups of cocoa palms 

 now full grown and in bearing, and whether they pay or 

 not financially, they certainly add very much to the beauty 

 and tropical appearance of tire islands', and viewed in this 

 light the "cocoanut fever" will prove of lasting benefit to 

 this section. 



At Long Key we left the main channel and went inside 

 the line of keys to Channel Key, where we anchored at five 

 o'clock under the Ice of Duck Key, The route usually 

 taken, it being somewhat shorter, is to go "inside," or on the, 

 northerly side of the keys from Long Key to Bahia Honda, 

 from whence the main channel is again followed to Key 

 West. The choice of routes is. however, usually determined 

 by the direction of the wind and the state of the sea. With 

 a northerly or Westerly wind, the main channel is the 

 smoothest, being then under the lee of the keys, while with 

 an easterly or southerly wind, the other route is taken for 

 a similar reason. The next morning we set stdl at seven 

 o'clock, the wind blowing harder than on the day before, 

 and from the same direction, or a few points nearer east. We 

 passed Grassy, Bamboo, Vaecas, Knight and other keys in 

 quick succession, leaving them to port and with the strong 

 breeze and smooth water, under the lee, we made teu miles 

 an hour from Channel Key to Bahia Honda. Coming out- 

 side here we found a heavy sea running, catching us on the 

 port quarter, but the Rambler, very buoyant in light ballast. 

 and being under full sail, skimmed the rollers like a sea gull. 

 We did not ship a sea on the whole voyage. The fishing 

 smacks, turtleis and spongers were all lying at anchor under 

 the lee of various keys, waiting for better weather. 



In plain sight was Sombrero Key Li-rhlhouse, thirty miles 

 S. W. byW. i-W. from Alligator Reef Light. This is a 

 couspicuous open frame iron work tower, one hundred and 

 fifty feet high, showing a fixed light, visible twenty miles. 

 We now left to starboard Pine," Saddle Bluff, Sugarloaf, 

 Loggerhead aud other keys. Southwest of Loggerhead 

 Key, is the new lighthouse onAmerican Shoal. Passing 

 Cargo Sambo, Boca Chica and other keys and islands, we 

 were in sight .if Key West Lighthouse, and oil' to the south- 

 west, Sand Key Lighthouse.! the latter is forty-three miles 

 W. by B. JS. from Bombrero Light and seven and a third 

 miles S. S. W.| W. from Key West light. Key West Light- 

 house (harbor light), is in the city of Key West, southeast 

 side, a brick tower, whitewashed, and shows a fixed light 

 fourteen miles. Sand Key Light is a revolving flash light. 

 Key West City now loomed up to view with' its steeples, 

 towers, and forts bristling with guns. Rounding Ft. Taylor 

 we proceeded to the common anchorage of the coasters and 

 fishing smacks, and dropped anchor at three o'clock, having 

 made one hundred and fifty miles in twenty-four hours of 

 sailing, an average of six and a quarter miles per hour. We 

 made everything snug, got the anchor light ready, and put 

 ; everything in ship -shape order for a stay of several davs in 

 port. 



Key West, a thriving and prosperous city of some fifteen 

 thousand inhabitants, is situated on the western portion of 

 the island, the latter being five miles in length and about a 

 mile wide. Ffgjn its position us the "Key to the Gulf," 

 with a deep and spacious harbor, and as a naval depot aud 

 coaling station it is a place of great commercial and nj ' 

 time importance. ll has a number of fine residen 

 buildings and churches, several hotels— the principal (.__, 

 the Russell House: — a marine hospital, a eustom house, and 

 U, S. naval depot. There is a neat and commodious barraeks 



with well-kept grounds, though the troops are at present 

 Stationed at Taiupft. There is also quite a large convent, 

 surrounded by handsomely arranged grounds, just outside 

 the city. The cemetery is tastefully laid <mi' and charm- 

 iuglv adorned by tropica] trees, shrubbery aud loworiug 

 ilailla The city is defended by several forts, the largest 

 leing Ft. Tayloi, a brick and atone fortress mounting Bomc 

 two hundred guns. Steamers for tfavana, Mexico, New- 

 Orleans, New York, Galveston and the Gulf toast touch 

 bore almost dad), besftlcai g»roal uunibet i of sailing vessels. 

 It is but sixty miles to Havana, and some four or five days 

 by steamers to New York. 



" Key West is a. quaint and charming city, full of oddities 

 and incongruities, a veritable town of ecceutric "patch- 

 work," wherein each edifice forms a "piece." Buildings of 

 all sizes and of ever conceivable style, or no style, of archi- 

 tecture, arc promiscuously jumbled together, hut are joined 

 or seamed to each other by a wealth and profusion of tropi- 

 cal foliage, which surrounds, invests, surmounts and over- 

 shadows them, softening the asperities, tonina down the 

 harsh outlines, ami uniting the separate pieces, which 

 merge their individuality iu'a hamioiiiou, /•■»/,, ., ,.'.. . 



The modern still and 'flashy Golhie church glares Miper- 

 eiliouslv through its cheap, (.'atharine-wheei window, as 

 through an eve-glass, at the weather-stained but stout and 

 solid old Spanish chapel, which looks up dreamily and good- 

 naturedly at its prim rival, while the cocoa palm stretches its 

 long arms over il proteetiugly, the date palm caresses it 

 ith slender, green fingers, and the almond tree looks on 

 :lh conscious pride. The stilted, upstart frame residence, 

 with scroll work hanging from barge-hoard and eaves, [ike 

 cheap cotton lace ostentatiously displayed by a vulgarly- 

 dressed woman, looks down haughtily on its i'ittle neighbor 

 — a rambling one-story cottage, of stone, with broad, pro- 

 ting roof and cool verandas, almost hidden in a mass of 

 les, creepers and flowers, which cling to it in loving em- 

 brace. The iron-front store, with plate-glass windows, 

 shoulders aside the dark aud sombre Cuban cafe with its 

 cages of singing birds and parrots hanging in the Pride of 

 India trees, and its cool shadows embalmed and emblazoned 

 by the bloom and fragrance of the oleanders. 

 Aud so, mansions, huts and hovels — balconies, canopies 

 nd porches — lattice windows, oriels and dormers— gables, 

 hoods aud pavilions — pillars, columns aud pilasters — are 

 singled in endless confusion, but harmonized by arabesques 

 jf fruit aud foliage, festoons of vines aud creepers, wreaths 

 and traceries of climbing shrubs and trailing flowers, and 

 ihady r bowers of palm and palmetto, almond and tamarind, 

 lime and lemon, orange and banana. 



Aud its population is as diverse as its structures, Ameri- 

 cans, Englishmen, Frenchmen, Germans, Spaniards, Cuban-. 

 Bahamians, Italians and negroes make up its numbers, the 

 majority being Cubans and Bahamians, or "CrmCllS," as the 

 English natives ol' the Bahamas are called Here nmv be 

 ■en every shade of complexion, from white to yellow, brown 

 and black, cosmopolitan all, though each class seems to live 

 n its own particular quarter of the town— as "birds of a 

 feather" mostly congregate in specialized groups — where, 

 after nightfall, thoy enjoy themselves, each class after its 

 own fashion, singing, dancing, and even drinking in its 

 Own language, .lack said he learned to drink beer in seven 

 languages while there, which is a liqui-lingtiistic accom- 

 plishment that few attain, and fewer eujoy. 



But there is a large and popular dance house at the west 

 end of town, which wo "took in" for Skipper's benefit, 

 are the harmonizing influences of the place are again ex- 

 emplified, and where white, yellow, brown and black meet 

 on a common level, male and female, aud "chase the fleet- 

 ing hours with flying feet" to the inspiring strains of a 

 cracked violin and a piano wdiich seems to possess a thou- 

 sand wires and all loosely hung. And if the test, of enjoy- 

 ment is the energy displayed, they certainly enjoyed them- 

 selves to the top of their bent, 



But we will take a long and upward step to a nobler aud 

 far more attractive scene, where the youth and beauty of 

 the island citv are assembled at the "Rink," a large "and 

 brilliantly lighted hall in the heart of the town. Here were 

 youths and maidens wdio had never seen a snowllake or an 

 icicle, and who had never heard the merry jingle of a sleigh- 

 bell; but all the same they were gliding along gracefully 

 and smoothly on roller-skates, or dashing around the outer 

 edges on the swift -whirlina- bicycle to the fascinating strains 

 of the "Beautiful Blue Danube;" while the mingled odors 

 of the cape, jessamine, I he tuberose and the orange blossom 

 floated in through the windows and doors. Oh, what a sub- 

 tile and potent powar in beauty, music and flowers! And 

 they had their influence on Jack, who was deeply enamored 

 of a little Cuban beauty; and no wonder, for she was per- 

 fectly brilliant and glorious in a wealth of jet-black hair, a 

 clear olive complexion, pouting coral lips disclosing regular 

 and pearly teeth wreathed by "a perpetual smile, while her 

 eyes were us black as midnight, with her soul looking up 

 out of their mysterious depths, and her form was even more 

 lovely than her face, and its loveliness was surpassed by her 

 grace. Poor Jack! "Beauty draws us with a single hair." 

 and here he was harnessed to each particular hair of the 

 beauty's head, frizzes aud all, We tried to convince him 

 that il was the effect of the music or the fragrance of 

 the flowers, and that he would get over it when he went out 

 iuto the fresh air; but he answered; 



Qi 



musie be the food of love, play on 

 eitlng. 



The appetite. 



nd so die 



That strain again; it had a dying fall; 

 0, it came o'er my ear like the sweet south, 

 That breathes upon a bank or violets. 

 Stealing and giving odor." 



Then Squire made the only quotation he was ever guilty 

 of, though it did him credit," for it was from the "book of 



hooks," 



"Stay me with flagous, cocufort. me will, applfla; for I an. sieli of 

 love." 



"But 1 think it will 

 with a soft brick!" 

 ;he manufacture of 

 recking. There are, 

 , from the one-story hut, 

 *e, airy and exten- 

 j hundred of hands. 

 sea, and the tobacco 



But. he spoiled it all when he 

 be better to rub his hump of am 



The chief industries of Key 

 cigars, sponging, fishing, tUTtli 

 perhaps, a hundred eiear feete 

 scarcely bigger than its sign, to the 1; 

 sive buildings, each giving employment: 

 The cigar makers are mostly Cuban reft 



is imported from Cuba, though for a time some Eastern 

 dealers manufactured here a large quantity of domestic 

 tobacco, which injured the trade and brought discredit, on 

 Key West cigars, so as to lessen the demand to 4 consider 



able extent; but, happily, the dishonest practice is discon 

 tinned. I believE, and only Cuban leaf is now used. 



A large fleet of \ es-< i- are engaged in sponging, the crews 

 being mo-ih "Conel.s." ; .,nd negroes. The sponges are taken 

 in shallow waters, oil' the reefs aud banks, where by means 

 ol the "spo ige-glass," a wooden pail with a glass bottom, the 

 sponges can be plainly seen attached to the rocky bottom, 

 ami to shells, when they are torn loose by a strong iron 

 hook affixed to a long pole. Each vessel tows six or eight 

 small boats or yawls, m which the men work. Some East- 

 ern houses lane -lieu-- depots here; anionic others I noticed 

 that of McKesson A Robhms Of New York. The sponges 

 arc here washed, dried, bleached and assorted, and are of 

 various grades and kinds. 



Every morning may be seen many small fishing smacks, 

 moored" si ern on along the fish wharf, with their wells filled 

 with live pan fish, such as grunts, po.gie.s, groupers, snap- 

 pers, bogfish. yellow tails, spots, etc., which are killed and 

 strung in lniiiel.es as fast as sold, selling for five or ten cents 

 a bunch, and on account of their cheapness form the prin- 

 Cipi I pan of the diet of the working classes. These pan 

 fish arc some of them very beautiful, as well as excellent 

 food fishes, and are caught in the channels near the city, 

 being taken principally with the sea-crawfish as bait, for 

 they are all caught with hook and line. The larger smacks 

 bring in kiugfish, otherwise know u as cero, or black-spotted 

 Spanish mackerel, a large and haudsome fish weighing 

 from five to fifteen pounds, almost equalling the real 

 Spanish mackerel in flavor; they are usually taken by 

 trolling off the keys. The fishermen are mostly "Conchs," 

 who are by nature nearly amphibious, learning to fish, 

 turtle', sponge and handle a boat almost as soon as they are 

 aide to walk, or at most, when old enough to wear pants. 

 They are the descendants of the English settlers of the 

 Bahama Islands, and have the cockney habit of changing 

 the "w" to "v." Even a negro, born in the Bahamas, said 

 to me one day ; 



"The vealher ain't no good for tishin', an' the vater is too 

 rough, and the vind too 'igh fur spongin'." 



A number of large smacks regularly supply the Havana 

 market with kiugfish and red snappers. By leaving Key 

 West about sundown they are in Havana by daylight the 

 next morning. Had we uot been pressed for time, or been 

 in Key West a few weeks earlier, I should have made the 

 run in one of these smacks. 



The fruit and vegetables and products brought to Key 

 West from the mainland aud keys are always disposed of at 

 auctions, which are held every morning, and are attended 

 by I he citizens as regularly* as Northern people "go to 

 market," If the supply of' eatables is small, notions" aud 

 other commodities arc sold, for the average Key Weslcr is 

 not happy without an auction. 



We were shown o\ r ery kindness, consideration and 

 courtesy during our stay in Key West by Mr. and Mm, 

 Gwynu and their two charming daughters. These young 

 ladies possessed all the advantages of a good and thorough 

 education, being well versed in belles-lettres, music and 

 painting, aud were as refined and graceful as our Northern 

 ladies, though they had never been away from their liltle 

 island home, having been educated entirely at the convent 

 of Key West . 



A PLEA FOR RECREATION. 



VFTER Herbert Spencer had been in this country a, 

 few weeks and bad tested the gastrouomic qualities of 

 saddle rocks at Horlou's, the bills of fare at, Delmonieo's and 

 the Brunsv, ick, seen the famous trotters of Vanderbilt and 

 Bonner, and wddzzed up and dowu a few times on the Ele- 

 vated roads, he concluded that we were "going too fast to 

 stand it" aud must hold up, or mental and physical decrepi- 

 tude would ensue. 



But seriously, what he said at the banquet given iu his 

 honor was as true as preaching; but who are the men who, 

 arc breaking down in the prime of life iu the manner he 

 describes'.' Not alone those who are apparently iu pursuit 

 of the almighty dollar, for all callings contribute their quota 

 to swell the tide that goes clown to premature graves. While 

 it is indispensable to success that all the faculties of brain 

 and body should be brought into requisition, it is just here 

 that so many make the fatal mistake of their lives. No 

 man can run his mental machine in one groove long at a 

 time without tiring. Exhaustion of the nervous force and 

 disorder of the body is the certain result of an excessive 

 whipping-up of the tired facidties, and finally prostration 

 ensues. The trite saying that, "All work and no play 

 makes dull boys" is so true that he who runs may read 



1 can recall a score of bright men, both business and pro- 

 fessional, who within ten .years have succumbed from simple 

 exhaution. For awhile apparenly tireless, their powers 

 suddculy failed aud nought but a wreck was left. At fifty 

 years of age they were indeed "dull boys," and all work jjnd 

 no play had done the business. 



Various motives impel men to "dare and die." The 

 heroes of a forlorn hope, the discoverer of a truth the 

 world spurns, the zealot who abandons prudence for princi- 

 ple, maj r perish on the field of battle, expire at the burning 

 stake, o"r die by "pendulous strangulation;" yet there ...ay 

 he compensations for sacrifices like these; but the man who 

 virtually commits suicide by the equally certain though 

 slower 'process of a profligate waste of the nervous fluid, 

 is a— well, he isn't smart. 



The causes that, lead to this undue work are not obscure. 

 We inhabit a comparatively undeveloped country. The 

 natural increase of population, augmented by* an unprece- 

 dented immigration, forces every capable man to strenuous 

 efforts as a, producer. We have ro compete with older na- 

 tions for the markets of the world they r have so long monop- 

 olized. In short, we have to do the work of tw^o generations 

 iu one. We seem really unable to "go slow:'' we are hus- 

 tled and crowded forward, until the tax npou the nerves 

 and endurance of the ordinary man is tremendous. It is 

 wise to hall now and then and'getour breath, and the ability 

 to do this can be acquired when once the necessity for it is 

 fully comprehended. The trouble is, we do not stop to con- 

 sider that the daily aud yearly wear and tear is killing us. 

 Very few people die natural deaths; the majority die by vio- 

 lence — self-imposed, it is true, but violence nevertheless. 



The advice of Piine/i is in order; "Don't." 



Thousands owe Mr. W, H 11, Murray a debt of grati- 

 tude for the attractive setting out he £ aye the North Woods, 

 But for those well-written drafts on his imagination, as well 

 as a literal portrayal of facts, scores would now rest under 

 the sod. To be 'alive and kicking (When the wind isn't 

 in the northeast) is glorious if one feels good. To be able 

 to take trout in May aud June, and deeiin September aud 

 October, is a matter to be thankful for, so we thank the 



