SEPTEMBER, 1908.] THE ORCHID REVIEW. 269 
not get worried with thrip, as the pipes do not need to get very hot, even in 
severe weather, and in case of a snowstorm coming on they act as a blanket, 
and the temperatures will be found correct in the morning instead of being 
down to 40°, asis often the case withcut blinds. 
Now that the potting season is practically over, and the busy season 
past, the houses should be washed down inside, the stages scrubbed, the 
pots washed, and the plants sponged. In re-staging, plants that are a 
distance off the glass will be better stood on inverted pots, to get them as 
near the glas§ as possible. It allows a free circulation of air and keeps the 
plants hard. Any old pots or pans will do that have got cracked in use, or 
hard pots that were not useable for potting. They should all be washed 
before being used, or if the stage isa moveable one an extra brick or pot put 
under the bearers will do instead of using pots to stand each plant on. 
WATERING AND DAmMPING.—More care will have to be exercised in 
watering now the days are getting shorter. Plants that are resting will 
require very little water, but growing plants should still have an ample 
supply. Do not allow any plants to shrivel for want of water, whether 
growing or resting, as it does harm instead of ripening them, as so many 
imagine. 
I have been asked several times what quantity of moisture is necessary 
for an Orchid house. This is a question which cannot easily be answered 
as places vary so much, the style of house, the heating arrangements, and a 
dozen other differences can be found, so that no hard and fast rule can be 
given. Several have asked me to give the moisture by hygrometer, but here 
again the same difficulties arise. My experience is that Orchids cannot 
~ be grown entirely .by hygrometers. Outside conditions often interfere. 
Some houses are situated in a bleak position; some are situated on a dry 
soil, others on a wet and damp soil. The only way I find is to study both 
plants and house. Take Cattleyas and Dendrobes. If too much moisture 
is being given, they will soon show black spots on the foliage, and then the 
moisture must be gradually reduced until no more appears, and the happy 
medium is found, as if kept too dry they will become infested with scale, 
thrip, and red spider. 
With Cypripediums it is rather a difficult job to get enough moisture to 
keep thrip down and at the same time not damp any leaves off. Nearly all 
the stove houses are the same. Phalenopsis, Phaius and Ccelogyne 
pandurata will soon spot if the house is overcharged with moisture, yet if 
kept too dry they get red spider and thrip. 
Our method here is to get our temperatures correct before damping. 
Take a Cattleya house, for instance. If the temperature is down to 55° 
when the normal should be 65°, we do not damp till it rises to 65°, and 
we find this a very satisfactory way. We do not allow our temperatures to 
