18 



FOREST AND STREAM 



Having made a bargain with one of the fishermen to take 

 our heavy baggage, in charge of Flanigan, round to the 

 lighthouse, and sending the Indians with a few light traps 

 in the canoe, we started on foot, accompanied for a short 

 distance by a garrulous old man, who informed us that the 

 island was the result of successive deposits of the sea, in 

 proof of which he assured us there was the carcass of a 

 whale far back in the woods. He was evidently rather 

 Darwinian in his ideas, and no doubt could have still fur- 

 ther enlightened us, had not we, being rather overpowered 

 by the warm reception of the cod fish, which seemed to 

 infuse itself into all around, bidden him a rather abrupt 

 good night and proceeded on our way. From English Bay 

 to West Point, two miles distant, we travelled along a good 

 beach of stone and gravel, with reefs extending upwards of 

 a mile from the shore, and beyond which the Indians were 

 now paddling the canoe. 



The coast is low, and covered with a small dwarf spruce, 

 whose branches, gnarled and twisted by the rude blasts to 

 which they are constantly exposed, are so thickly matted 

 with the underlying growth, and conform so closely to 

 the limestone rocks on which they stand, as at a short 

 distance to resemble grass, and it is not too much to say 

 that in many places it w^ould be almost possible to walk 

 on the tops of the trees, though such a statement may at 

 first sight appear absurd. Near the lighthouse we came 

 across the ribs of a large barque, which had been wrecked 

 some two years ago ; her cargo had been planks, which 

 now lay stacked in square piles upon the shore, and 

 which we had mistaken for huts on first approaching in 

 the schooner. We were thus early greeted by a startling 

 evidence of the death and danger which lurked around 

 these shores, and, alas ! it was not the first by many a 

 one that w^as yet to stand forth as a grim and ghastly 

 record, tending to confirm the wild and superstitious tales 

 with which the island is invested. On our arrival at the 

 lighthouse (a circular stone tower, faced with white fire 

 brick, exhibiting a light 109 feet above sea level) we were 

 met by M. Maulivin, the keeper, a stout, elderly French 

 Canadian, who, however, spoke tolerable English, and 

 seemed pleased to see us. He has a capital house attached 

 to the lower basement of the tower, and a nice little farm, 

 with two cows and a horse, besides pigs and poultry. 



The mist which had been threatening all day now settled 

 down into a dense fog, and the stillness of the evening was 

 broken only by the report of the gun fired every three- 

 quarters of an hour during thick weather. The canoe had 

 not yet turned up, but the Indians were well able to take 

 care of themselves, so we were not anxious on their account, 



The next morning, as if to make amends for the inhosita- 

 ble reception of yesterday, Nature wore her fairest garb. 

 The plaintive moaning of the surf is lost in the gentle rip- 

 ple of the water as it washes lazily upon the beach, and the 

 'sudden boom of the midnight gun, that seems to tell only 

 of shipwreck and destruction, is succeeded by the musical 

 tinkle of the cattle's bells as they stray through the woods. 

 Along the shore flocks of plover and sandpiper are flitting, 

 now wheeling far out to sea, now circling inward in rapid 

 flight, alternately skimming the surface of the tranquil sea, 

 wdiich, mirror-like reflects their ever}'- motion, and rising in 

 mid-air till the receding tide leaves some muddy patch, they 

 slowly settle down, after a few minutes rest to be off again 

 in quest of some fresh feeding ground. Outside the reefs a 

 few fishing boats are already at anchor, while the dark 

 brown sails of others hastening out to swell the number 

 may be seen rounding the point. In the midst of this 

 peaceful picture we are reminded of the far different aspect 

 it too often wears, for close at our feet lies an old twenty- 

 four pounder, red with the rust of upwards of a century. 

 As the water falls more guns and a few round shot become 

 exposed to view, and we learn that they once formed part 

 of the armament of a large English frigate, lost here some 

 time during the capture of Quebec. The crew escaped, and 

 spent some months in the little bay we had just left, and 

 which still preserves their memory under the French name 

 of "Baie de Anglais." 



It is worthy of remark that in many parts of the country 

 there appears to be something in the pasturage which has 

 an injurious effect upon certain forms of animal life. Bab- 

 bits and hares, without which scarcely an island of any size 

 in the Gulf is found, are never seen, and though often intro- 

 duced have quickly disappeared ; rats which have escaped 

 from wrecks speedily become extinct, and it is strange that, 

 though the interior of the island abounds in lakes and ponds, 

 the sources of numerous streams, the beaver, mink, and 

 muskrat (the latter animal being so common elsewdiere) are 

 wholly unknown. The pleasant chirping of the graceful 

 little chipmunk here never greets the ear, and there are but 

 four fur-bearing animals known to the trappers — the black, 

 or brown bear, the otter, marten, and fox, of which latter 

 there are several varieties. 



About eight o'clock the Indians turned up, having slept 

 the previous night upon the beach. We started at three 

 o'clock, the Indians taking the baggage in the canoe. We 

 had intended to have camped this evening at Ellis Bay, but 

 what with shooting at plover and yellow-legs, and not pay- 

 ing attention to the tide, now rapidly falling, the canoe had 

 eventualty to leave us and pursue her way outside the reefs 

 nearly a mile off. The coast is low and thickly wooded, 

 but it is not without its points of interest. Here a low, 

 overhanging cliff of dark earth and limestone forms a head- 

 land, on rounding which we find the shore sweeping in gen- 

 tle curves to where yon low wooded point marks at once the 

 termination of one and the commencement of another bay ; 

 there a tiny stream, the outlet of some inland bog, after 

 many a struggle to force it way over rocky crag and through 



tangled jungle, at last emerges in a grassy hollow that skirts 

 the forest, where forming a deep gully it issues forth in pure 

 limpid water upon the gravelly beach. 



When within two miles of Ellis Bay night overtook us, 

 and as the evening was closing in with rain and wind we 

 began to be anxious for the wdiereabout of the canoe. We 

 were just debating a halt when a faint shout broke on our 

 ears. We fired twdce in response, to indicate our position, 

 and in about ten minutes we heard a splashing through the 

 water, and presently Hamilton emerged like a water-god 

 out of the gloom with the cheerful news that they could go 

 no further, and that the boat and baggage now lay on the 

 reef more than half a mile off. The rain was jnst com- 

 mencing, so we had a pleasant prospect. There was noth- 

 ing for it but to carry everything ashore as quickly as possi- 

 ble, and so first lighting a fire, there being luckily no lack of 

 drift wood along the shore, we despatched H. back again. 

 In less than an hour our traps were landed, the men work- 

 ing right well, it being no easy matter to carry five or six 

 hundred weight of baggage half a mile through water and 

 over stone and gravel in the dark. We now began to plan 

 what shelter could be run up most readily for us to pass the 

 night under • it was too late to cut clown timber to construct 

 a hut, so carrying the canoe out of reach of the morning- 

 tide we turned her bottom up, and then supporting one gun- 

 waft on the paddles, the other resting on the shingle, w T e 

 formed a tolerably dry covering for our heads and upper 

 parts of our bodies. Plenty of boards were at hand, which, 

 after drying by the fire, we laid along the length of the 

 canoe, To pluck some of the birds we had shot and spit 

 them over the burning embers was the work of a few min- 

 utes. They were delightfully fat and tender, and were 

 hardly cooked before they disappeared before the hungry 

 crowd that crouched around. After supper and a stiff glass 

 of grog we put on our great coats, and rolling ourselves up 

 in our waterproof rugs lay down ; and so, with the rain 

 beating pitilessly down upon our frail covering, the sea lav- 

 ing the beach, and a bright wood fire (in front of which the 

 Indians were curled up in their blankets like two round 

 balls) at our feet, we spent the first night on the island of 

 Anticosti. 



The next morning was fine, and as the tide was now high 

 we lost no time in making a hasty toilet, and after a cup of 

 tea and a mouthful of biscuit reloaded the canoe and set off 

 at a brisk walk. A short half hour brought us to the bay, 

 where we were favored with as fair as picture as one could 

 well desire. Hardly a ripple stirred the bosom of the bay, 

 which lay like one vast mirror, reflecting in its crystal depths 

 the wooded shores and limestone cliffs which formed the 

 setting. Here and there huge dark boulders rear their heads 

 above the surface, their summits literally alive with seals 

 basking in the sun, till, roused into activity by the sharp 

 ping of a bullet that whistles close beside them, they floun- 

 der into the Water with heavy splash, and the next moment 

 are seen twenty or thirty yards off peering cautiously around 

 in search of the intruder upon their wonted solitudes. 

 Ducks, plover, and sea pigeons hover and circle over the 

 outer portion of the. bay, while from its inmost recesses 

 flocks of ducks come soaring out in long succession, and 

 yohder, flying in regular order like the letter V, a flock of 

 wild geese sail majestically over the pine woods. From a 

 little cove thin columns of blue smoke are curling upwards 

 from the cottages of the few settlers who live here, sur- 

 rounded by many a comfort denied to their brethren on the 

 main land. The mouth of the bay is marked by two low 

 wooded points, Cape Henry and Cape Eagle, or Pointe aux 

 Pins, as it is locally named, the eastern headland being a dis- 

 tance of one and a half miles. A good channel three and 

 a half fathoms deep, extending one and a half miles inland 

 and three quarters of a mile in width, with good holding- 

 ground of clay, affords a safe anchorage for small vessels in 

 any w r eather ; the reefs which trend, one from Cape Henry 

 in a southerly direction, a distance of one mile, and another, 

 from Pointe aux Pins, three-quarters of a mile westerly, 

 forming a natural breakwater, which completely shelters 

 the channel from the heavy surf which breaks on these 

 bars with the slightest swell. The shores gradually rise in 

 height from the entrance, and, doubtless from being more 

 sheltered, the timber now first assumes respectable propor- 

 tions ; the jungle too disappears, and vast, plains, or "bar- 

 rens," as they they are technically termed, take its place. 

 Far back into the coumry lie two elevated ridges or spurs, 

 trending to the north and east, forming the watershed, 

 whence spring the babbling streams and purling brooks 

 which are met with at frequent intervals. Gentle coves 

 with sandy beaches, backed by picturesque limestone cliffs, 

 diversify the scenery, and the bay imperceptibly contracts, 

 like the purse of a seine, till where, some two miles from 

 the mouth, it receives a small sluggish stream, flowing 

 through grassy bottoms, indented by projecting copses of 

 spruce and pine. At the head of a neighboring inlet, known 

 as Gamache's bay, from a worthy of that name, who 

 was one of the first settlers, and of whom some ugly stories 

 are told, stands the provision post, for the relief of ship- 

 wrecked mariners, and the comfortable looking cottage of 

 Captain Setter, whose fine breed of cattle may be seen 

 grazing on the marshy land we have just alluded to. At 

 the entrance of the bay I got into the canoe and endeavored 

 to ' 'bag" a seal ; they proved, however, too quick, diving 

 simultaneously with the flash, and after several ineffectual 

 "dodges" to try to get to windward, and so obtain a shot at 

 the side of the head (where they could not see the flash), 

 I gave it up, and, paddling ashore, lit a fire, and was soon 

 deep in the mysteries of baking "chupatties" (an Indian 

 cake made of flour and water, with a little butter to fry it 

 in) and other culinary preparations for breakfast ; of al 



others the meal, par excellence, of the sportsman. De 

 Courcey and Flanigan had meanwhile walked some way 

 ahead, and now returned laden with plovers and beach 

 birds, which proved a welcome addition to our larder. 

 They had selected a better camping ground near the head 

 of the bay, and accordingly about twelve o'clock we shifted 

 our quarters to where the Indians had built us a very co7y 

 looking bough "wigwam," prettily situated between the 

 trees on the edge of the wood. On our way to the second 

 camp we passed one of the limestone cliffs, of which men- 

 tion has been made above, whose general effect was such 

 as, at a short distance, to give one the idea of some moated 

 wall, broken and crumbled by the hand of time. Almost 

 opposite stood a larger cliff, but without any of the pecu- 

 liar beauty of the one described. In the afternoon De 

 Courcey went out shooting in the canoe, while Flanigan 

 and myself followed the shore and struck into the woods 

 near the head of the bay. After more than an hour's 

 scramble through thickets of alder and dense woods of 

 spruce and juniper, without seeing a sign of animal life, 

 we came upon a small rivulet, which flowed in a dark inky 

 stream from the "barrens" at the back of the bay, and, fol- 

 lowing its course, at last emerged upon the shore. The 

 black flies swnrmed in the w r oods, and though we wore 

 green gauze veils our faces w r ere literally streaming with 

 blood. 



De Courcey had met -with poor success, shooting only 

 three ducks and a few plover. The birds, he said, were 

 very wild, and It was quite evident that they are much shot 

 at by the settlers at Gamache Bay. It was a lovely night, 

 and as we lay on our rugs after dinner, the moon shining 

 softly down through the over-arching boughs, and the cry 

 of the duck and shrill cackle of the wdld geese feeding on 

 the barrens was borne faintly on the still evening air, we 

 began to realize the full enjoyment of a forest life. Tired 

 with the long day of ceaseless activity we composed our- 

 selves for rest at an early hour, little dreaming of the mis- 

 ery in store for us. About eleven o'clock it began to rain, 

 and continued to pour incessantly all night. At first our 

 covering of boughs and birch bark withstood the pelting 

 onslaught, but presently drip, drip came the heavy drops. 

 Turn how we would we could not escape them, and fitfully 

 dozed and as fitfully w r oke up with a start. 



The following morning after breakfast De Courcy and 

 self started for a "barren" which lay close to the camp. A 

 slight ascent brought us to the plain, which stretched inland 

 some miles, surrounded (save on the side nearest the bay) 

 by woods, which form picturesque capes and headlands in 

 this vast sea. Pools and creeks of dark water, encircled 

 by irregular sized patches of peaty bog, intersect the bar- 

 ren, which is covered with a thick green moss and lichen, 

 and a species of plant in outward appearance closely resem- 

 bling heather, while squash, pigeon, and other berries attain 

 a large growth. At every step the foot sinks deep in the 

 crisp, dry moss, and renders w r alking most laborious. From 

 the feathers and numerous "droppings" these barrens are 

 evidently the favorite resort of wild geese, which, with the 

 rise of the tide come sweeping in from the reefs. Unfor- 

 tunately it was now nearly low water, and they were singu- 

 larly devoid of life, a solitary yellow-leg alone flitting over 

 the pools. I mistook it for a jacksnipe and fired. The 

 bird fell in the centre of a pool, and could only he 

 approached by passing over some very treacherous looking 

 ground. From a slight experience, however, of the bogs 

 of the "ould counthry," I flattered myself I could get it, 

 and springing lightly from patch to patch of grass hauled 

 the bird forth and held it up in triumph. My troubles 

 were not at an end, for on turning to retrace my steps my 

 slight support gave way, and the next moment I went souse 

 up to the waist. Sic transit gloria mundi. The situation 

 was by no means pleasant, as I found myself settling down 

 in the most disagreeable manner. Luckily De Courcey was 

 at hand, and with his assistance and a deal of "tugging" I 

 was extricated minus one boot, and with a coating of rich 

 mud and clay deep enough to have grown potatoes in. I 

 didn't bless that yellow-leg, but it was fortunate it was no 

 w r orse, as our Indians told us afterwards that men have 

 been lost in these bogs, so deep and tenacious are they in 

 many places. In the afternoon we went out shooting in 

 the canoe and bagged four ducks and one plover. The for- 

 mer are very wild,' and it was with the greatest difficulty 

 we got within range. This evening we turned in early, as 

 we purposed crossing the bay at high tide at four o'clock 

 A. M. 



[To be Continued. J 



Here is an account of a very ludicrous fishing match on 



jtheNidd: 



"Angling Match in the Nidd.— The third Walshford 



i Bridge and Kuaresborough angling match took place on 



] Monday last, The left bank of the river from Hard - 

 castle's mill at Hunsingore and two miles bejTmd was staked 

 out as the portion to fish, about twenty yards was allotted 

 to each angler, and 173 competed. The day was excessively 

 hot, but a slight wind caused a nice ripple on the water, 

 which was slightly colored, but the fish captured were 

 meagre in the extreme, many of the rodsters not even getting 



' a nibble. This poor result from this river, and the 

 many experienced anglers engaged, is surely a memorable 

 event in the history of trial fishing. The trees adorning the 

 bank of the river gave shelter to many of the rodsters, but the 

 luckless who were cast for the open had to avail themselves 

 of the slight protection afforded by umbrellas, &c., the 

 heat being overpowering. The competitors were some 

 dozen in number. All the skill of the anglers did not get 

 a stone of fish amongst them. Just before the gun signal- 

 led "cease fishing," the fish were only beginning to bite, 

 the power of the sun having decreased, one angler get- 

 ting a prize with three fish caught, about twenty minutes 

 lbefore time was called." First prize £6, caught 1 lb6£ oz 



