FOEEST AND STREAM. 



259 



when, after carefully studying it, we rowed away, it swam 

 in the eddy under the stern until it was dislodged and left 

 behind. 



We were not long gone when the fond mother rejoined 

 it, when her demonstrations of delight were as unmistak- 

 able as her former distress, and it was a pleasant thing as 

 time and again we passed the bay to see the two playing 

 about in entire contentment. 



The loon seems unable to rise from calm water, or to gain 

 elevation in flight unless very slowly, or when aided by a 

 high and opposing wind, and hence I infer their long and 

 pertinacious resort to diving as their mode of escape. One 

 I frightened from a small mountain pond in the "north 

 woods" of this State flew around and around, gaining, like 

 a spiral stair, a little height each time, and labored in alarm 

 a long time before in the calm air it could rise over the 

 lowest cut among the cliffs and escape to some more undis- 

 turbed retreat. 



Not unfrequently^do they rush along on the surface of 

 the water, using their vigorous wings and scattering spray 

 in showers along their course, and beyond doubt their 

 movements below are equally rapid and ready. L. W. L. 



X 



THE HUNTER NATURALIST IN NEW 

 BRUNSWICK AND NOVA SCOTIA. 



A SUMMER in Acadia, the land of countless lakes and 

 luxuriant forests, will furnish the sketch book with 

 rare scenes, the cabinet with choice minerals, the basket 

 and bag with fishes and game, and impart to the invalid 

 and wearied, vigor, health and hope. 



Three months amid the rural and forest districts of the 

 Provinces has convinced me that they possess greater at- 

 tractions for the tourist, sportsman, and health-seeker than 

 the majority of regions of resort in North America — the 

 Adirondacks, one of my favorite haunts, not excepted. 



In these are old primeval forests, grand and picturesque, 

 like the actual forests of my childhood. Here the lumber- 

 man has never lajd the proud pine low, nor his axe, the de- 

 stroyer of our forests, sounded amid these solitudes. There 

 are woods in the Provinces where he has been at work, 

 but tarry not in these; beyond are preserved lands 

 where the trees stand as they ever stood, in majesty of 

 growth and beauty of foliage. But penetrate the Maine 

 and the Adirondack wildernesses to their desert heart, even 

 there will be signs of the lumberman and his axe, the 

 scourge and curse of our woods. The lumberman is not 

 satisfied with robbing our wildernesses of their pride and 

 beauty — the trees — but must fire valley and mountain, 

 leaving the latter bald and bare as the head of a Franciscan 

 monk, obstruct rivers with floating logs and ugly dams, 

 fill trout streams with tree tops and sawdust, and build his 

 saw mills and hnman habitations on the most eligible 

 camp sites on stream and lake. In a word, seeming to de- 

 light in defacing and marring nature in her every member. 

 Come, ye poets, artists, naturalists and hunters; ye lovers 

 of primeval forests, to the Acadian woods! 

 '•This is the forest primeval, the murmuring 

 ^ines and the hemlock, bearded with moss and in garments green, 

 Which Longfellow immortalized in his 'Evangeline.' " 



Here, too, is some of the finest scenery to be met with in 

 any land. Its sky scenes may not be so soft and subdued 

 and sunny as those of Italy, but are not so montonous and 

 quite as enjoyable. The tourist in search of wild, bold, 

 broken and rugged mountain scenery, towering and. naked 

 cliff views, should penetrate New Brunswick, enter the 

 county of the Restigouche, look upon the outline sentinels 

 of our own Alleghanies, sleepy and silent and hoary with age. 

 It would be hard to find a more wild picturesque region 

 than this. Or does he delight most in half subdued, quiet 

 and rural scenery, then a sail up the St. John river, the 

 Rhine of the New World, whose hills are low and soft in 

 outline and cultivated to the very summits; or down the 

 Bay of Fundy, encircled with green hills and fanned by an 

 eternal sea breeze; or out into the waters of the Bay of 

 Minas, the basin of waters in the garden of Nova Scotia, 

 the rich prairie waters, the cliff-bound waters, and the 

 never-to-be-forgotten tidal waters. Such scenes to the stu- 

 dent of nature afford immortal pleasures. Here meets the 

 eye as remarkable a phenomenon, as grand and awe produc- 

 ing as that of the Falls of Niagara. View this scene at the 

 quiet village 6f Windsor, on the river Avon. The river is 

 without water, the vessels are high on land, laden with 

 precious freight, sails fanning the face of the breeze, sail- 

 ors looking seaward, who cry "Ho! water!" Far in the 

 distance appears a little stream of light; nearer and nearer 

 it comes. Ah! it is a rippling rivulet that increases in vol- 

 ume and strength, bounding and leaping past in full glee, 

 filling corner and crevice. Now a brook rushes on like a 

 running steed, now it surges and rolls over the wide ex- 

 panse, now a river, next a lake, and anon a sea, whose 

 waves beat against the banks and whose waters bear up 

 the mighty ships from their dry beds and on to their des- 

 tined ports. Yonder is the steamer coming to bear us over 

 the basin to Parrsboro, thirty miles distant, ere the tide 

 goes out twelve hours hence emptying these banks of 

 sixty feet of water and leaving the scene as we found it. 



These Provinces abound in mineral wealth. Nova 

 Scotia is rich in gold fields. These . have yielded no mean 

 amount of this precious metal already, and yet scientists 

 are of opinion that its main beds of gold have not been dis- 

 covered, and that the examinations and explorations of the 

 ledge rocks that contain gold on the Atlantic shores, said 

 to embrace several thousand square miles, have been but 

 partially and very superficially made, leaving its rich gold 

 veins yet to be found. Its iron and coal mines are numer- 

 ous and prolific. New beds are constantly being found 



about the Bay of Minas and other ore regions. Here the 

 mineralogists may collect rich and rare specimens. In 

 game, the Provinces are unsurpassed. In these may be 

 found the hunter's and angler's paradise. The sportsman 

 will find the beautiful and attractive forests inhabited by 

 moose, caribou, bear, otter and beaver, their extensive 

 marshes covered with the choicest of game birds — Ameri- 

 can snipe, golden plover and curlew. There, too, will be 

 met in their haunts geese and duck, also grouse and wood- 

 cock,' plentiful in certain localities, their rivers and streams 

 filled with silvery salmon and spotted trout. 



I shall venture to embrace in five divisions the hunting 

 centres or districts of Acadia. By hunting districts is 

 meant regions remarkable for game. These hunting 

 grounds will not include those parts which do not contain 

 both moose and caribou. 



First is the Mirimichi district, N. B. Thie, includes all 

 the wilderness in and about the great southwest branch of 

 the Mirimichi river and its tributaries, together with all 

 that territory in and about ail the little Mirimichis. The 

 southwest Mirimichi lies north of Frederieton, N. B., the 

 seat of government, about fifty-five miles. This river and 

 its branches traverse the very heart wilderness of the 

 Province. It is reached by taking the European and North 

 American Railroad at Boston, to Frederieton Junction, 

 which lies close by the dividing line between Maine and 

 New Brunswick. Here change cars for Frederieton on 

 the St. John river, where supplies must be obtained for 

 the wilderness, since there is no place beyond this point 

 where provisions can be bought. 



Guides and dug-outs (boats) can be secured at Boiestown, 

 Mirimichi river, (southwest branch) or by addressing the 

 Palmer or Stickney Brothers at this village. John Stickney 

 has no superior as a guide in angling and hunting in this 

 region. One of the Palmer brothers can call moose with 

 much Indian art and success. Both of these have accom- 

 panied me salmon fishing and moose and caribou hunting. 

 There is a stage running every other day from Frederieton 

 to Boiestown, which will convey you and your supplies to 

 the Mirimichi river. When up river to "Burnt Hill," the 

 ne plus ultra of salmon pools, you can strike off from either 

 side a few miles and find moose and caribou, bear and 

 beaver and small game, or ascend the river twenty miles 

 farther and see many of these animals, together with other 

 fur-beaiing quadrupeds, without leaving the steamer. Far 

 down the river I saw the summer camp of a beaver and his 

 fresh work. Bears are so abundant here this fall as to 

 enter the* settlements below and destroy both sheep and 

 cattle. 



Another excellent district in New Brunswick, and one 

 that embraces a vast wilderness, is the country of the Res- 

 tigouche river. This is a famous hunting and angling re- 

 gion. By some it is thought to be far superior to the Miri- 

 michi country. The forests of both regions contain the 

 same kind of game, and their streams afford fine sport in 

 salmon and trout fishing. Number 6 Forest and Stream 

 contains a complete guide to the routes leading to this dis- 

 trict. 



Again, there is the Indian Lake district, Nova Scotia. 

 This is in the vicinity of Halifax, and because of its close 

 proximity is much frequented by English officers stationed 

 at the city. Yet, notwithstanding this, the sportsman 

 from a distance may have excellent success within twenty 

 miles of town in bird or moose shooting.. Within this dis- 

 tance there are. too, many excellent salmon and trout 

 centres. The next game district to which I shall refer em- 

 braces the Avilde ness extending from Yarmouth into the 

 Annapolis country, and lying north of what is known as 

 the lake region of this Province, and only lacks, as Mr. 

 Hallock says, the grand old mountains to make it physically 

 as attractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and 

 fishes it is in every way infinitely superior. The region 

 north of the lake country is a dense and extensive wilder- 

 ness, in which game is but little disturbed. The Micmac 

 Indians have always considered this and the lake country 

 one of their best angling and hunting grounds. Here the 

 beaver still builds his dam and erects his house. These an- 

 imals seem to be on the increase since beaver hats have 

 gone out of fashion. There are also in this region many 

 varieties of fur-bearing animals, such as otter, mink, mar- 

 ten, together with bear, lucifee, and other game animals. 

 These are common to all the districts inhabited by moose 

 and caribou, and the streams will afford fine sport to the 

 fly fisher in killing salmon and trout. 



This district can be reached by steamer from Portland to 

 Yarmouth. On angling in these Provinces, see "Hallock's 

 Fishing Tourist," the only complete and reliable work of 

 the kind which we have met — as true to the streams as the 

 needle to the pole. 



The next and last district, and one that has not only su- 

 perior attractions for the sportsman, but as well for the 

 naturalist, artist and resortist, is the Parrsboro district. 



Parrsboro, beautiful and romantic, is situated on the 

 basin of Minas, a quiet summer retreat. In picturesque 

 bays, islands, and green hill views, it has never been my 

 fortune to meet its equal. You may bathe in its full tidal 

 waters and walk on the beach of the same sea dry-footed 

 a little afterwards, when the tide is out. And woe betide 

 the mineralogist who dares venture a visit to one of the 

 sister islands that lie half a mile in the bay from shore, if 

 perchance he tarry long, until warned by the incoming 

 waters which are moved by a law as regular, sure and un- 

 changing as the sun, that danger is nigh. He now lifts his 

 hammer and chisel and satchel of minerals, and commences 

 a hurried retreat, but ere two-thirds of the way is reached 

 the water is knee deep. Deeper and deeper it grows. 



higher and higher it advances, faster and faster he speeds. 

 His safety now turns upon his casting away that satchel of 

 precious stones. But it contains rare specimens, which 

 have cost much labor to knock out of the rocks. He hes- 

 itates ; only for a moment, however, and it drops at his 

 feet, and now he leaps through the water and finally 

 reaches the shore wearied and exhausted. This is no fancy 

 sketch, but an actual experience. And yet there is not the 

 least danger from the incoming and outgoing tide. Ladies 

 and children walk these shores, collecting minerals and 

 watching the waters day in and day out without a thought 

 of danger. 



Parrsboro Minas is destined to be the Newport of Nova 

 Scotia. It would be impossible to overrate its romantic 

 position. The Ottawa House, kept by an estimable lady 

 (Miss Wheeler), is a first-class summer resort, located with 

 a view to command the sublimest prospects of Cape Blom- 

 iden Cliffs, and other mountain peaks, of which there are 

 many, in and about the Basin. Up the mountain sides, at 

 the base of which rests the hotel, are many retreats, where 

 you may rest in the mountain ascent and watch the sail 

 boats near and far on the bay waters, and listen to the 

 song of the birds and the hum of the insects, or examine 

 the entomological specimens that light on bush or crawl on 

 ground. But words fails to describe the pleasure of such 

 scenes. These belong to that rare class of scenery that 

 needs to be visited to be appreciated. Besides its scenery 

 and sea bathing facilities it abounds in rare and choice 

 minerals, and is much visited by mineralogists of all coun- 

 tries. Several of the professors and students of our own 

 universities come here every year. A company of nine 

 students from Yale College collected in four weeks this 

 year nine barrels of minerals. I collected in a day in and 

 about the bluffs of Partridge Island, which is not more 

 than half a mile from the hotels the following specimens: 

 Amethyst in quartz, jasper, red and yellow, stelbite, silici- 

 ous silter, gypsum, agates, copper, iron; and during my 

 hunting tour my wife and children collected many others, 

 and we brought away a keg of these, which adds much to 

 our cabinet. Years ago two rare and remarkable ame- 

 thysts were -found here. One was presented to a French 

 king, who wore it in his crown, and . the other is said to 

 cparkle in the crown worn by Queen Victoria There are, 

 too, many interesting and picturesque drives along the 

 bluffs of the bay, and also one to a newly discovered cave 

 filled with relics of the past. 



This region will be found equally prolific in animal life. 

 Portions of its forests are but moose-yards, browsing pas- 

 ture grounds. I have seen, this summer, upwards of 

 twenty of these pastures in a radius of thirty miles, and 

 the tracks of these animals were as the tracks of the cattle 

 upon a thousand hills. On this same ground, as my Indian 

 guide assured me, four Indians, out of season, during the 

 deep snows of last spring, ran down on snow shoes and 

 killed sixty moose, leaving their carcases to rot in the wil- 

 derness, all for the paltry price their hides would bring. 

 "This is barbarous," as John said, "in an Indian, but 

 there are white men here who practice this mode of hunt- 

 ing as well." 



The caribou travel on the hard-wooded ridges, the moss- 

 covered ridges. These are as abundant in their haunts as 

 moose, but since they do not yard like the moose, but pass 

 and repass from yard to yard, feeding as they go, the 

 hunter thinks them not so numerous. While moose and 

 caribou occupy the same forests in this district, they are 

 yet separate. Here, too, other poitions of the same forest 

 are occupied by bears. While other animals pass through 

 these bear districts, yet the latter hold and defend them 

 against all intruders. 



I met with one of these bear districts near the Bucktagen 

 Plains, thirty miles from Parrsboro, that contained bear 

 trails as well travelled and as numerous as any I ever saw 

 in moose or deer regions. There are many red and cross 

 foxes here, and other fur-bearing animals, including the 

 otter, fishes, martens, &c. These are found along nearly 

 all the streams. There are also in the forest both ruffed 

 grouse and black grouse. The black or spruee grouse (21 

 canadensis) are met only in cedar and spruce swamps. Near 

 Parrsboro both woodcock and duck shooting is good. One 

 of the best snipe, plover and curlew shooting centres in the 

 world is embraced in this district. I mean the famous 

 Lockville and Amherst marshes. These (Tantramar) 

 marshes are reached by daily stage from Parrsboro which 

 connects with the Intercolonial Railway, or from St. John 

 by the same railway. 



The trip to any of these districts named can be made as 

 quickly as to the Adirondacks or Maine woods, and with 

 much less expense, and where game is infinitely more 

 abundant. 



The best guides in the Adirondacks, including boats, 

 cost $3 per day, while the best guides in Nova Scotia and 

 New Brunswick cost from $1 25 to $1 50 per day, gold. 

 The fare from Boston by rail or boat to St. John, will not 

 exceed $9, while it costs about $10 from New York to the 

 Adirondacks, and many of these districts are as well 

 adapted to hunting and fishing in canoes as are the Adiron- 

 dacks to boats. Should any think me over enthusiastic 

 for these Provinces, let them visit them. This is addressed 

 to patient, appreciative sportsmen,andnotto grumblers and 

 easy-chair anglers and shooters, who lounge about civilized 

 woods and 'border streams, and who return to curse the 

 man who wrote on their advantages and beauties. 



One of the best guides in all Nova Scotia is John Logan 

 of Half Way river. He is a most competent, reliable and 

 willing guide. I have found him perfectly familiar- with 

 the woods and equally acquainted with every species of 

 game therein found. A. B. Lamberton 



