HE AMERICAN 



SPORTSMAN'S 



tSatered According to Act of Congress, In the Tear 1S79, by the Forest A Stream Publishing Company, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington;] 



ir Dollars a Yea 

 Ionia a Copy. 

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NEW YORK, THURSDAY, JUNE 19 1879 



For Forest and Stream, and Rod and Gun. 



JJ j[hroniclq off (j£<mnat\. 



ONE summer evening, after a long stage-ride from the 

 town of Keyser, on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, 

 I found myself seated upon the high porch of an excellent 

 brick hotel in the ancient town of Moorefield, Oounty of 

 Hardy, and State of West Virginia. 



Notwithstanding the fact that this quaint little town has 

 lazily dreamed away a hundred years and more upon the 

 p inks of the Cohongorutou (the Indian name for Potomac), 

 it still bears unmistakable traces of primitive times and 

 borclei habits. 



Hare we have just such hardy men as followed Daniel 

 Morgan from this country into the wilds of Canada. They 

 Bra to bs seen in town any gala day, clai in homespun 

 clothes and homemade shoes and hats. Many of them are 

 lining pictures of their Continental forefathers ; even to the 

 fringed huu ting-shirt, the old-fashioned rifle and powder- 

 horn. 



Tub habits of the mountaineer class are similar to what 

 they were a hundred years ago : they are half-hunter, half- 

 farmer. The rifle aud dog are their inseparable companions 

 Hone3ty and simplicity are strongly cast upon their features. 

 The towu-folks, however, are thoroughly modern. The 

 ladies ape the latest city fashions j the gentlemen have en- 

 tirely cut loose from the habits of their ancestors. The 

 landed gentry who, without doubt, boast the finest farms in 

 America, do not indulge in horse-racing, fox-chasing and 

 cock-fighting to the same extent as did their ancestors ; yet 

 some of them keep hounds, and have an inherited fondness 

 for sport. They point, with pride, to fields which have 

 yielded large crops of earn for a hundred years, and to their 

 herd-) of sleek cattle. 



But it is not my intention to dwell upon the beauties or 

 fertility of this wondrous valley. The sceuo of my story lies 

 many miles toward the sinking sun. 



After a few days' rest beneath the lazy shales of Moore- 

 field, our little party, equipped for the exploration of 

 Canaan, ceremoniously shook the dust from our feet and de- 

 parted. To one unused to it there is much pleasure in 

 Stirling out in such hunter-like style ; accoutred with guns, 

 blankets, axes and frying-pans. 



Bright anticipations of camp life and adventure filled our 

 eager minds. Our first day was without event. The sun 

 had just disappeared behind the lofty mountains as we drew 

 up on the banks of the North Pork. Our horses were un- 

 packed aud turned loose, and after indulging in the rare 

 luxury of a camp-cooked supper, we prepared our reeling- 

 place for the night. Our surroundings were most inviting, 

 and never shall I forget the delightful sensation I experienced 

 as I sank down upon my first camp bed. 



All nature was slowly sinking into repose and quiet. The 

 squirrels scampered through the leaves, hastening to their 

 lofty nests above our heads ; the owl had begun his hideous 

 chant, making the forest seem deserted by the dismal echoes 

 that were wafted along its lofty arches. Slowly the depart- 

 ing twilight faded into darkness. All was silent. We slept 

 the sleep of the weary. 



Surely a camp lied mu^t be one of nature's best restorers, 

 for we awoke next morning entirely refreshed, and with an 

 abundance of strength to undertake the ascent of the Alle- 

 ghanies. After breaking camp we visited an old hunter by 

 (he name of Evans, hoping to obtain his service as guide. 

 Unfortunately, he was "keeping store" while the proprietor 

 was attending court. Evans claimed to be the first man to 

 explore the intricate windings of the Blackwater, and said 

 he had rescued several hunters from the laurel brakes of 

 Canaan. 



It was not. long before we left behind us all trace of civili- 

 zation, and taking the trail at Crow's Ridge, we were soon 

 commencing the ascent of the highest mountain in the Alle- 

 ghany range. The dwellers at the foot of the mountain are 

 pleased to call thi3 trail a " pike." Heavan forbid that I 

 should ever travel another such, h a it under never so pleasing 

 a name. Several times my hair was on end, so to speak, to 

 see one of the horses in danger of rolling some five hundred 

 feet down the treacherous slate banks, and only regain the 

 patlf after a deal of scrambling. When we reached the Star 



Rock we were compelled to dismount, and so steep was the 

 path that we made but slow headway a-foot. 



After two miles of climbing we reached an open spot, 

 from the centre of which flowed a most inviting spring of 

 delicious water. - We turned loose our horses and let them 

 browse, while we partook of a cold dinner. The prospect 

 from our camp was grand beyond anything I had ever seen, 

 and t felt amply repaid for all hardship. To the south, the 

 Roaring Plains swept away into the sluggish cloud3. Far 

 away in the north we could discern the faint outlines of 

 Rohrbach's Plains, a magnificent desert of rocks. Eastward, 

 we had an uninterrupted view to the Blue Ridge, over a vast 

 sea of mountain-tops. A member of our party, who had 

 gazed upon all the grandeur of the Yosemite, said he re- 

 membered no scene which surpassed this one. Want of 

 time pushed us on, and we were soon skirting along the top 

 of the mountain— that point being about seven miles from 

 its base on one side and six on the other. My pen fails me 

 in painting the wild beauly of the scenery along our route. 



The trees were so tall, and stood so closely together, that 

 we seldom got a glimpse of the sun. 



Here was a broad bed of deep-green moss^and there a 

 luxuriant garden of ferns. Now sloshing through the mud, 

 and again scrambling over a bed of rocks, frequently we 

 could hear the roaring of some hidden stream as it dashed 

 along its underground passage. 



At the foot cf the mountain we crossed Red Creek, an un- 

 pretentious little stream, though famous for its large trout. 

 It3 water is of a dark-red color, as, indeed, are most of the 

 streams of thi3 region. When dipped in the cup it has the 

 appearance of brandy. The discoloring is probably caused 

 by the laurel brakes, or, as an old hunter informed me, by 

 the pine burrs dropping into it. 



The sun was just disappearing as we ascended a steep little 

 ridge which lay across our pathway. It was my fortune to 

 reach the top first, and there at my feet lay the wonderful 

 valley. Yes; we had reached our Mecca at last, and as our 

 gladdened eyes swept away to the north over the vast wil- 

 derness, not even an exclamation escaped our lips. We 

 gazed upon the scene in wonder and admiration. A short 

 descent brought U3 to the level, and we plunged into the 

 dark forest of Canaan. A superstitious shudder ran through 

 me as I gazed about upon the gloomy scene. The giant 

 treeB loomed up through the soft twilight; the air was damp 

 and chilly; all nature was wrapped in deathlike stillness. I 

 thought of the Dismal Swamp, of the mysterious dells of 

 the Kaatskills, and each stately tree was metamorphosed into 

 a ghostlike shape, beckoning me to follow. 



" Well, men, whar did you start from?" said Mr. Saul 

 Cosner, the sole occupant of this wilderness, as we drew 

 rein before his door. We gave him the desired information, 

 and informed him of our purpose. 



When we asked the old man if we might camp, and turn 

 our horses out to graze, he grew as indignant as an ancient 

 lord, and swore we were the first men who were too proud 

 to accept his hospitality. We told him it was only fear of 

 incommoding him. 



"That's my consarn," said the appeased backwoodsman, 

 and so we unpacked. After looking to our horses we pro- 

 ceeded to the cabin, and were ushered into the dining-room. 

 The feast was spread upon a rustic table, and pine "stumps 

 served us for seats. 



Cosner opened proceedings with a lordly wave of the 

 hand, adding, by way of grace, " Just reach, men, and help 

 yourselves." Whereupon the aforesaid reached and com- 

 plied. 



There was one ingenious and labor-saving custom that I 

 have observed in no other place. The stove stood beside 

 the table; beside the table stood Mrs. Cosner, baking huge 

 buckwheat cakes. When a cake was browned to her liking 

 she took it up in her fingers, patted it into shape, took one 

 step toward the table, and tossed it gracefully into the plate 

 which awaited its reception. This unique performance was 

 kept up until we had satisfied our keen appetites on buck- 

 wheat cakes and venison, the former containing such an 

 abundance of sand as insured digestion. 



The numerous offspring stood gazing at the vanishing 

 morsels with eager interest. Now and then one of them 

 made known its hunger by a hearty squeal. Our hostess 

 turned from the stove, and gently raised him or her, as the 

 case might be, on her foot, when everything was quiet again. 



After supper we lit our pipes and spread our weary limbs 

 on the soft turf. Old Cosner sat close by, now and then 

 asking a question as to what was going on in the outer 

 world, and occasionally putting in a reminiscence ^>f his 

 hunter life. 



"My grandfather was twelve years a prisoner among the 

 Indians," said the old man, " and they leached him ail the 

 huntin' they know'd. When he got back to the settlements 

 he tuk me and trained me up to the same business, and I've 

 been a huntin' ever since." 



How many deer have you killed in your life?' 1 asked 

 Wallace, the inquiring member of our parly. 



" Well, you'r loo hard fur me, man ; but I've killed about 

 seven hundred sence I moved here in Canaan : besides two 

 hundred bears, and lots of painters " 



Of the numerous bear and panther fights the old man re- 

 counted, I give but one as a sample ; 



" I wounded an old buck one day," said he, drawing him- 

 self up for a 8tunner, " and he got oil from me. I shoved in 



another ball, and guess I was too hasty, fur the durned ram- 

 rod stuck fast. I couldn't get her out, so I jist counted on 

 shootin' her at the buck, and away I went on his trail. 

 Pretty soon I spied him hidin' in the brush, and 1 drawed up 

 an' let hira have it. The old gun cracked cl'ar as a whip, 

 and down come the buck. Well, boys, I tuk her down to 

 see if she was hurt, an' bless me if the rod wasn't stickin' in 

 her yit." 



"But I don't see how the ball got out," put in the in- 

 credulous Jack. 



" Durned ef I ever could tell," said Coster; "but that gun 

 was a powerful good one; an' what's more, she once, fetched 

 a bear, a painter and a deer without ever thin' off. This is 

 how it was" (taking a long pull at his pipe): "I went to 

 walch fur a white deer one night; folks said it was a witch, 

 but I know'd I could fetch her. I hadn't been in the blind 

 long afore I heerd sumthiu' a ratllin' the leaves over my 

 head. I looked up, and there was the biggest pair of fire- 

 balls I ever seed. I begun to think it was the deer as had 

 climbed the tree, but afore I could do anything a little deer 

 cum a clippin' into the lick. The next minit keswap come 

 an old painter out the tree and lit on the deer's back. Jist 

 then a big bear as was follering the deer cum up, an' at it 

 they went to see who should git the best piece. Not cariu' 

 to take a hand in the scrimmage, I jist looked on, an' when 

 they'd killed one another I steps out, skius the whole party, 

 and tramps home with the load in my gun." 



Our pipes had gone out during the narration nf Ibis story, 

 so we concluded to turn in. Our room was decorated on 

 one side with a half-dozen rifles, while the other side was 

 more lavishly adorned with the family finery, being dresses 

 of many colors and coats of many patches. Each of the two 

 beds was furnished with two enormous licks. Jack informed 

 us that the top one was intended for a covering. I tried it, 

 and, finding it better suited for the roof of a bear trap, I 

 mounted on top. The rest followed my example, and we 

 were soon reveling in dreams of bear-fights. While those 

 imaginary combats are progreseing, I will take occasion to 

 give a brief description of Canaan. 



The Valley of Canaan is about thirty-five miles long and 

 nine miles in width — at least, these are the dimensions 

 Cosner gives, though I very much doubt their accuracy. Its 

 level is about five hundred feet higher than that of the 

 Moorefield Valley, and it really appears as though it had 

 once been a large lake, having iis bed scooped out of a 

 mountain-top. ft runs nearly north and south, and is as 

 nearly level as can be. Rocks are nowhere to be found 

 within its limits. The soil is rich and loamy, producing the 

 cereals in abundance when cultivated. I think I am sate in 

 asserting that nowhere in the East can such a magnificent 

 forest of timber be iound as in Canaan. The trees are of re- 

 markable size and of beautiful symmetry and proportion. 

 Their huge trunks run a hundred feet and more before the 

 By m me try is marred by knot or limb. A crooked tree is sel- 

 dom met with. Walnut, cherry, oaks and pine are the chief 

 varieties. There are many groves of ihe fir (Alii ' ■ 

 These trees are high, and branchless until wilhin a few feet 

 of the top, which is crowned by a shapely cone of bluish 

 foliage. The oil of the fir serves as a panacea for the moun- 

 tain people, being used in all diseases, and regarded as in- 

 valuable. 



The Blackwater is a small, sluggish stream that winds 

 through the valley for fifteen miles, and then leaps over the 

 rocks as the famous "Palls of the Blackwater." Its banks 

 are surmounted by impenetrable laurel brakes. 



A short distance from Cosncr's cabin a strung spring of 

 icy-cold water bursls from under a little bank and flows 

 over a flat sandstone rock. This rock would make a fine 

 study for Professor Marsh, Upon it are many impressions 

 of animal footprints. We could plainly make out deer, bear, 

 wolf and elk tracks; then there were prints of Indian moc- 

 casins, aud of bare feet. Several strange-looking tracks we 

 could not make out ; they resembled the print of an elephant's 

 foot, and were probably left by some ancient mastodon 

 which was accustomed to take its morning draught from the 

 spring. 



The land in Canaan is being rapidly bought up by a Btock 

 company. Settlers will BOoa flow in, the mighty forest will 

 crumble before the advancing step of man, and this luxu- 

 riant wilderness will be transformed into a fertile valley. 

 The deer and the bear will be displaced by the domestic 

 animals. Instead of Ihe startling crack of the title we will 

 hear the sonorous blast of the dinner-horn, summoning the 

 farmer from his toil. Blessed be Canaan, the land of prom- 

 ise 1 But I, for one, will look back with fond recollection 

 upon the days when I hooked the speckled trout from her 

 dark waters and tracked the fleeing deer. 



We were up next morning by break of day, and repeated 

 our mancouvres among the buckwheat cakes. After break- 

 fast Cosner took us to explore the river. Along its banks we 

 found an abundance of bear and deer sign. In the evening 

 we returned to the cabin literally loaded down with trout. 

 The trout of the Blackwater are nnt large, but they are to be 

 caught by the thousand, and their meat is extremely sweet 

 and palatable. Several days were passed pleasantly at fish- 

 ing and exploring. During that time we managed to pick 

 up~muck of the lore of venery from the old huuter. He in- 

 formed us that he had seen two large elk in Canaan during 

 his residence there. 1 was afterward shown a large antler, 

 picked up in the valley by a gentleman of Moorefield. Jtj 



