430 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



A WEEKLY JOURNAL, 



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Fish ltltfbk, tb e Protection of Game, Preservation ot Fokestb, 

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NEW YORK, THURSDAY, JULY 3, 1879. 



To Correspondents. 



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CALENDAR OF EVENTS FOR THE 

 COMING WEEK. 



Friday, July 4.— Greenpolnt Athletic Club Annual Games; Scottiah- 

 American Ath'erlc Club Game*, at Manhattan Grounds; Harlem 

 Athletic Club Games. Metropolitan Association Rowing Regatta, 

 Hudson River, off Washington Heiubts; Open Amateur Rowing Re- 

 gatta, at Albany, N. Y.; Palisade Boat t lub Regatta, Yonkers, N. Y.; 

 Northwestern Regatta, at Toledo, O. Boston Lacrosse Club Match 

 with Momrtal Club at Boston. 



Saturdry, July 5.— Athletic Games at Manhattan Grounds, N. Y. 



Monday, July 1.— Potomac RowlDg Cub Regatta. New York State 

 Association Convention at Rochester. 



Tuesday, July 5.— Convention as above. 



Wednesday, July 9.— Convention as above. National Amateur Oars- 

 men Regatta, Saratoga, N. Y. 



Thursday, July 10.— Regatta as above. Convention as above. 



SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. 



SECOND PAPER. 



River Godboci, Lower St. Lawrence,) 

 June 22, 1879. / 

 MR- Editor : 



My first letter noted our arrival and departure from Quebec, 

 en rmU for tbe Godbout, which is 220 miles or more down 

 river. While at Quebec, and at all stoppiog places?, the beau- 

 tiful Cruiser attracted crowds of curious visitors, for a yacht 

 of her quality costing $20,000 or more, is something magnifi- 

 cent in these waters. With her dainty white hull relieved by 

 panels of sombre wood and dark lines of oak in natural color 

 sweeping in graceful curves from stem to stern ; with her 

 jaunty spars, her fluttering deck awnings, her flying bunting, 

 and her polished brass fittings and ornaments, she looked like 

 a beautiful May Queen bedizened for a fete. The burgee of 

 the Royal Canadian Yacht Club streamed out at the main ; 

 the monograph of the Cruiser fluttered at the fore; the British 

 flag waved majestically over the counter ; and the breezy 

 Stars and Stripes danced merrily on the bow, in compliment 

 to its Yankee guest. Thus attired, she glided like a swan 

 from under the frowning heights and shadow of tbe city, and 

 sped onward toward her stormy baptism of the Gulf. 



Any person Btepping into the main hall of the St. Louis 

 Hotel at Quebec at this season of the year, will discover huge 

 piles of strange baggage. There are strong wooden mess 

 chestB wilh ruBty iron hinges aDd hasps ; medium-sized col- 

 lapsable leather trunks pasted all over with foreign "stick- 

 ers," and looking as if they had been pounded by all the 

 baggage-smashers of the two hemispheres ; leathern bat boxes 

 of unmistakable English cast ; shapeless bales bound up with 



rubber, and corded ; bundles of waterproof coats, ulsters, and 

 mackintoshes ; long wooden parallelograms fastened with 

 screws and inscribed all over with multitudinous labels, ad- 

 dresses, and directions in marking-ink ; leathern gun cases, 

 bundles of rods tied up in oil cloth, metal and wooden bath- 

 tubs, varnished cases of homeopathic medioines, tent canvas 

 and poles, portable stoves, bouquets of dangling long-legged 

 boots, and numerous nondescript articles whose csntents or 

 utility it would puzzle a second-hand sight-seer to guess ; and 

 all of tbem tumbled together and kicking about as if they be- 

 longed to nobody, and attracting no attention whatever. 

 Tbe initiated understand these to be chiefly impedimenta of 

 trans-Atlantic Englishmen bound for the salmon rivers en bas. 

 Sometimes as maDy as fourteen or fifteen pieces belong to one 

 man — articles deemed essential necessaries — for "one cam't 

 get everything one wants in America, y'know." Occasionally 

 some of the less pretentious packages belong to native Cana- 

 dians, or visitors from the States. These piles of baggage 

 usually lie around for several days, then suddenly disappear 

 mysteriously, leaving the much-encumbered hall clear again, 

 so that guests can move about late at night without swearing. 

 These changes attract no more attention than the varying 

 phases^of the moon. What is most noticeable, perhaps, is the 

 absence of all bustle. The place is serenely quiet. We are 

 confidentially informed that there are so many soores of 

 guests in the hotel, yet we seldom see a dozen persons to- 

 gether, even at the tables. The Englishmen usually take 

 their coffee and porridge en rectus; for dinner they dine out 

 with friends; and as they are invariably booked for desig- 

 nated rivers by invitation of the lessees, they have no ques- 

 tions to ask, no interest in the preparations, and no anxiety 

 whatever as to the time or method of reaching them. It is 

 indeed refreshing and assuring to observe with what implicit 

 trust and nonchalance these anglers from over the water place 

 themselves in the hollow of their host's hand, and there rest, 

 waiting only to be moved, like those incapables we read of nt 

 the Pool of Bethesda. Whenever the regular steamer, pri- 

 vate yacht, chartered tugboat or challoupe, or what-not, is 

 ready, they depart and are gone— gone, as the weasel pops, 

 or the much-written Arab folds his tent and steals away. 



Very few Americans come to Quebec except in the charac- 

 ter of general tourists : (and speaking of "Americans," so- 

 termed, it seems as difficult to find an acceptable synonym for 

 the citizens of the United States, as distinguished from those 

 of Canada, as it is to discover an appropriate substitute for the 

 much-hackneyed phrase, " speckled beauties," as applied to 

 trout). There are possibly a half-dozen experienced anglers 

 from over the border who have joint rights in certain rivers, 

 or obtain fishing privileges from Canadian friends ; and these 

 are perfectly au fait as respects localities, times and seasons. 

 They are widely and favorably known and are always wel- 

 comed cordially. As for the rest, the greater part come entire 

 strangers, without letters of introduction, or the faintest con- 

 ception of what they must do when they get here. Most of 

 them have never taken a salmon. To such the services of 

 mine host,Willis Russell, Esq., of the " St. Louis," are always 

 a godsend. Though an "American" by nativity, he has re- 

 sided many years in Quebec, always acting as quasi interpre- 

 ter, mediator, and general factotum between his own and his 

 adopted countrymen. He seldom, if ever, fails to get them 

 fishing of some sort. He has even exerted himself so far as 

 to lease a branch of the river Marguerite, and erect six cottages 

 by its choicest pools, for their express accommodation. Each 

 of the cottages bas three rooms, comfortably fitted with all 

 conveniences for house keeping, with boats, attendants, pro- 

 visions, etc. ; for all of which very moderate charges are made. 

 The Marguerite is a tributary of the mighty Saguenay, and is 

 easily reached by the Saguenay steamers. It is the most ac- 

 cessible and comfortable billet in the whole of Canada. It is 

 remarkable how few Americans are educated to the high art 

 of salmon fishing. Their aspirations seem not to reach beyond 

 the trout and the bass ; reasonably because the Eastern salmon 

 are no longer indigenous to their waters. Perhaps the num- 

 ber of anglere will multiply when the streams of New Eng- 

 land are again restocked. 



The Forest and Stream has repeatedly instructed its 

 readers how to secure access to the teeming rivers of Canada. 

 W. F. Whit cher, Esq., the Chief Commissioner of Fisheries, 

 resides at Ottawa. He is a member of the American Fish 

 Cultural Association, and in sympathy with the whole fra- 

 ternity, native and foreign born. Leases of rivers can be se- 

 cured through him ; but the privilege can be enjoyed only by 

 the rich. In addition to the rental and the maintenance of a 

 permanent guardian, which the law requires, is the formi- 

 dable expense of reaching most of the rivers,— all, indeed, of 

 those emptying into the St. Lawrence. The Intercolonial 

 railroad makes those of the Bay Chaleur and of New BruBS- 

 ■wick and Nova Scotia accessible ; while the North Port 

 steamers provide fortnightly communication between Quebec 

 and Gaspe, tbe peninsula which divides the Bay Chaleur and 

 the waters of the St. Lawrence. Therein are maDy of the 

 best rivers. For the rest, the owner or lessee must provide 

 his own transportation and outfit. Some prefer to pay the 

 wages of the vessel's crew for the whole period of absence, 

 rather than send the vessel away and depend upon the pos- 

 sibly precarious chance of her returning at the appointed 

 time. Indeed, this is the sensible procedure. To be left on 

 the inhospitable coast of the St. Lawrence, where no one 

 lives except the lonely light-house keepers, and no vessel 

 comes except the annual oil supply steamer or the Hudson 

 Bay Company's Coaster; where storms prevail even in the 

 mildest summer months ; and where the warmest clothing is 



a luxury all the year round ; would be to court exposure to 

 hardship which even the hardiest acclimated native could not 

 endure unless he were comfortably housed and fed. The 

 chronicles of the Lower St. Lawrence tor nearly three cen- 

 turies are but a history of wrecks, castaways, and dire dis- 

 tress; and only by the construction of long-needed lights and 

 beacons within the past half century were the dangers of the 

 passage mitigated. 



The rivers of the north shore are very numerous. From the 

 high abutting promontory which forms Cape Diamond at 

 Quebec, to the romantic castellated rocks at Henley Harbor, 

 near the eastern entrance of Belle Isle Strait, there is an 

 almost unbroken wall of towering granite, except where it is 

 slashed by the icy streams which have cut their passage 

 through its perpendicular face. These generally find their 

 sources in lakes far back upon the extended plateau above, 

 from Bixty to eighty miles away, and are mainly supplied by 

 the melting of the accumulating snows of long-protracted 

 winters. This plateau is an undulating reach of barren coun- 

 try sparsely clothed with spruces, dwarf poplars, and stunted 

 birches and aspeDS, with a few cedars, balsams, alders, and 

 swamp willows along the water courses, and is interspersed 

 with bold granite rocks which occasionally rise to rounded 

 mountains of moderate height. The country is wholly unin- 

 habited except by a few straggling Montagnais Indians. 

 Some of the rivers pitch over the dizzy escarpment along the 

 St. Lawrence front in perpendicular falls like those of Mont- 

 moreDci, a hundred feet high and more ; others tumble to the 

 sea in a series of falls and cascades set back in walled recesses 

 or rocky cafionB, overtopped by wooded mountains, from 

 whose foot they flow to their outlets in varying moods of 

 froth and glassy darksome pools ; others again make their exit 

 by an almost continuous rapid, through physical features much 

 tbe same, though less rugged and picturesque. All of them 

 are sub-Alpine ; or perhaps they more resemble the broken 

 salmon streams of Norway. Those persons who appreciate 

 the conditions necessary for the propagation of salmon, which 

 seek the gravel and shallow waters of the upper stream for 

 spawning, will perceive that precipitous falls at the outlets 

 must present an insurmountable obstacle to their ascent. 

 For the same reason few or no salmon will be found in 

 such rivers as are barricaded by rock two or three miles from 

 their mouths. At the same time, those rivers which present 

 a continuous rapid, while they are Jacob's heavenly ladders 

 for the salmon, are wholly impracticable for the angler. The 

 number of rivers, therefore, which afford the conditions suit- 

 able to both fishes and fishers, that is, a succession of pools 

 and rapids, either to a limited distance, or throughout their 

 whole extent, is appreciably small. I have given a partial list 

 of them in Hallock's "Fishing Tourist," published by Har- 

 pers in 1873, but will insert an amended list here, indicating 

 in italics those best known in which salmon are found. If it 

 be the only list printed, as I believe, it may be valued for 

 preservation and reference. The best rivers are indicated by 

 small capitals. Beginning at Quebec, and omitting the Jacques 

 Cartier, which is the only salmon river above Quebec, we in- 

 dicate them as follows : 



St. Lawbeuce, Nokth Shore. 

 St. Anne, 8awhill, 



Murray, Thunder, 



Utile Saguenay, ) tributaries Magpie, 



St. Jean, > of the St. John, 



Marguerite, 2 branoheB, ) Saguenay. Mingan, 



Bergeronne, Ro.iurNB, 



Little Bergeronne, Nabesippi, 



Lascannen, Agwanne, 



Laval, Natashooas, 



BersemU, Kegashka, 



Ontard, Shallop, 



Maniscouagan, Mnsquarro, 



Godboct, Wasbe-coo-tai, 



Trinity, Olomanosheebo, 



English, Etamanu, 



Pentecost, Netagamu, 



St. Margaret, Meoatlna, 



Moisie, Kecarpwei, 



Trout, St. Augustine, 



Fall, Esquimaux, 



Manitou, Black. 



Sandy, 



South Bbobe St. Lawrence. 

 " Riviere du Loup, Valley, 



Bic, Fox, 



RrMOOftKI, York, 



Metis, Dartmouth, 



Matane, St. John, 



Magdalen, Grand. 



Bate des Chalecb, 

 Little Pabon, Charlo, 



Grand Pabon, Jaquet, 



Nonvelle, NrpissiGUlT, 



Bonaventnre, Pok66b.au, 



Grand Cascapediac, Pockmouche, 



Little Uascapediac, Tracadie, 



BestigoUCHE, N. Miramichi, 



Matafedia, 1 S. Miramichi, 



Upsalquilch, I Tributaries of 



Quatawahtamkedgewick, ( Eestigouohe. 

 Patabebiac, J 



In addition to the foregoing are the Margaree, a notable 

 salmon river of Cape Breton, and the Jupiter and Revillon, 

 both fair rivers on the island of Anticosti. In many instances 

 the construction of proper fish ways to facilitate the passage of 

 the salmon is practicable ; or the rocks miy be blasted into, so 

 as to afford a footing for their ascent. The expense would be 

 great: still there is little doubt that the outlay would be reim 

 bursed in time by the propagation of increased numbers of 

 salmon to be obtained by opening new spawning grounds on 

 the now inaccessible headwaters. Blasting would be the 

 most efficacious, as the moving ice in springtime would en- 

 danger any wooden structures. On a few of these north 

 shore rivers are fishermen's cabins, or posts of the Hudson's 

 Bay Company, but the whole coaBt for the most part is bleak 

 and forbidding desolation for hundreds of miles ; and the 



