FOTCEST AND STREAM. 



A WEEKLY JOUH1HA1., 



JJIVOrKD TO FlKLD AMD AUC4TU! SrOKTS, PRACTICAL N ATTORAI, HI6TOBV , 

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 AND TBB INCULCATION IN MEN AND WOMBU OF A. liBALTHr INTBMBT 

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NEW YORK, THUKSDAV JULY 10, 1879. 



To Correspondents. 



All communications whatever, intended for publication, must be ac- 

 companied with real name of the writer as a guaranty of good faltli 

 and be addressed to the Fobest and Stbbam Publishing Company. 

 Names will not be published If objection be made. No anonymous com- 

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— Mr. Hallock, our Editor-in-chief, baa now returned from 

 his ashing cruise to Canada, much refreshed and ready for 

 work. The third letter of his interesting series will be found 

 in u.e current issue of Fobest and Stream. 



Qu 11-, Not Paktridgb.— Begin right. Call the newly 

 imported migratory quit by their real name. They are 

 quail, not partridge, as they have already been miscalled. 



The Indianapolis "Kamping Kltjb "— If its prin- 

 ciples and practices are such as would seem to be sym- 

 bolized by the Euglish disregard of conventional orthography, 

 manifested in its name, the Kamping Klub of Indianapolis, 

 Ind., is a praiseworthy institution. The members, we are 

 told, have bauded themselves together for the express purpose 

 of withdrawing from the restraint of business and society, 

 and plunging into the solitudes and wastes, where they re- 

 vert into that indefinable slate of existence, whose joys and 

 hardships make up the cbarm of camping out. The officers 

 of the club for 1879 are: President, W. Kose; Vice-Presi- 

 dent, W. F. Elliott ; Secretary and Treasurer, Geo. A. E. 

 Htiugh. Last summer the club had a delightful time, and at 

 last advices were actively preparing for another diet of iocusls 

 and wild honey, this time probably among the Northern 

 lakes. Iu their excursions the atti mpt is made to comnioe 

 profit with pleasure, science with sport, and different mem- 

 bers are appointed to investigate and report upon various 

 Bubjects of science and natural history. A museum has been 

 formed, the growth of which affords a constaut incentive to 

 the collection of rare specimens, and the '-Kamping" men 

 unite the character of sportsman and naturalist after the true 

 ideal of the Forest and Stream reader, for, as a matter of 

 course, each man of tbem reads that paper as regularly as 

 the postman brings it arouod. 



—The complimentary banquet, given to the New York 

 Game Protective Associalion by Messrs. Starin and Gorwin 

 at the Manhattan Beach Hotel, Coney Island, last Tuesday 

 evening, was a most pleasant affair. The menu, which was 

 one of those for which the Manhattan is famous, was the least 

 of the many features which combined to make this reunion 

 of veteran gentlemen sportsmen a notable one. Toasts, 

 speeches and bim moia followed each other, and many bappy 

 things were said which, like all after-dinner good things, 

 would lose their charm if transferred to paper. The ban- 

 quet was, moreover, noteworthy as a recognition of the So 

 ciely's moral force in the community, a recognition which it 

 has well earned. 



SALMON FISHING IN CANADA. 



THULTO r.VPETV. 



. Kivkb Godbodt, Lower St. Lav/rence,) 



\ June 25, 1879. / 



Mb. Editor ; 



My friend and host is a veteran athlete from the " Land o' 

 Cakes," mighty in stature, of majestic mien and sinewy 

 arm, venerable in years, rich in wealth, and powerful tn 

 command. He is lord of the Godbout realm. Salmon are 

 his minions, and his imported Forrest rod his sceptre. When 

 he sways it, the bin fish leap before bim, and obsequious sul - 

 jects graciously 1 ffer up their lives. His dominion lies far 

 "down to the nor'rud," where the great, whales spout, and the 

 dreadful octopus stretches out its giant arms; where the ice 

 lingers far into July, and the lap of Spring is capacious 

 enough for the most prolonged and protracted Winter. From 

 the top of the lofty tower where I am dow writing, be sur- 

 veys his 5,0(<0 acres of wilderness possessions, and overlook? 

 the moody river which betimes is black and white with its 

 raging outflow, and anon more placid as its temper sn v eides 

 with its diminished volume. His gracious reign has already 

 ixtended fifteen years. The Governors-General of Canada, 

 Premiers, Bishops, Judges, and noted dignitaries Irom both 

 sides of the "great herring pond" have paid him court and 

 enjoyed bis munificent bosphalily. King Olaf never acted 

 the host in better or more generous part. When the salmon 

 season approaches and the run of fish is about to begin, he 

 sets forth in his steam yacht Cruiser, (more luxurious than 

 the barge of Cleopatra,) sails down the mighty St Lawrence 

 full 5U0 miles, as we have just now done, hoists the British 

 ensign on the si*ff of his tall tower, surveys the premises from 

 the winding balcony outside, aud in the name of the Queen, 

 the Fish Commissioner, and all the newly created Knights of 

 the New Dominion, declares the angling season open I TheD 

 follows a stir throughout the Camp, which has been sileui 

 and tenantless for ten long months. The blasts of November 

 have shaken it; the winter snows have piled around the c'-us 

 tering collages ; floods of spring have threatened them ; and 

 the breaking ice-fields floating down the swollen lide, have 

 even shoved them from their foundations, despite the fenders 

 of stone and timber which were built for their protection 

 Even now the tardy spring has scarcely opened the buds and 

 blossoms, and ou this 25th of June all vegetation has the ap- 

 pearance of fin April development in the latitude of New 

 York. On the 14th of June ce formed, and on the 15th we 

 had a flurry of snow. Last winter's ice still remains in many 

 of the secluded gullies. Up to the 19th the mid day tempe- 

 rature averaged only about 50 degrees. Then warmer 

 weather began; though winter clothing is still indispensable 

 to comfort. But such weather is phenomenal, eveu for this 

 region of wind and cold. And this induces me to enjoin 

 upon sportsmen, as I have often done before, to provide 

 themselves always with an abundance of warm clothing and 

 waterproofs, especially when visiting high latiturtes. The 

 inexperienced invariably suffer from neglect of this precau- 

 tion. 



And now while the cook is polishing up the rusty stove in 

 the kitchen, and several attendants are selling things to rights 

 throughout, let us climb a neighboring sandy hill and survey 

 the situation. A zigzag path leads to the top, and on the 

 summit there is a flag siaff sixty feet high and a rude shelter 

 with seats for rest. This promontory is visible fifteen miles 

 out to sea, and is a chosen landmark for navigators. Directly 

 opposite it is another sand bluff a half mile dis ant ; and these 

 two elevations, extending to ihe right and left in a range of 

 spruce covered hills, enclose a great basin which was formerly 

 the bed of a mighty river, and a harbor where vessels might 

 anchor in fifty fathoms of water. But now the Old river bed 

 is a grassy bottom, through which the Godbout, flows with 

 comparatively insignificant volume, dividing itself for a wbile 

 into three branches, so as to enclose the two pretty worded 

 islands, and then uniting again, and reaching the salt water 

 by a single channel, with scarcely three feet of water at low 

 tide. At high water the yacht can run in over a sand bar 

 and find safe shelter under the lee of a sandy spit covered 

 with spaces which runs parallel with the St. Lawrence, and 

 was itself once a mightier sandbar at the mouth of a mightier 

 river. The present sandbar is merely a projection of the 

 spit ; and the spit itself a projection of the sand bluff Beyond; 

 and the bluff, in its turn, a projection of a still higher eleva- 

 tion, each of which marks the giadual recession of the waters 

 both of th. river and the Gulf. This greater elevation is 270 

 feet high. It ii*a ridge of sand mixed with sea shells, and is 

 called the "Hog's Back." It is so narrow at its apex that 

 two persons cannot walk abreast, and so steep that the stunted 

 bushes and trees on the seaward side are constantly slipping 

 down to the beach, while the taller spruces which clothe it 

 landward, seem to stand on the tops of those below tbem. 

 From ibis high point of observation is a wonderful view. 

 The outlook is toward an apparently boundless sea, flanked 

 on the left by the Point des Moms, fifteen miles below, and 

 outlined on the right, as far as the eye can reach, by the blue 

 hills of the distant south shore, thirty-five miles away. Be- 

 yond the hills the snow-capped summit of Mi Ste. Anne glit- 

 ters in the sun ; Btrelches and patches of snow can be seen 

 on many of the higher elevations ; down toward the Gulf sev 

 eral long lines of smoke indicate passing steamers; there are 

 three or four ships and a couple of fishing smacks in iheufflog. 

 The foreground js rugged. Great combers of surf roll in with 

 the lide, and chase each other over the Bandy flats at the 

 I mouth of the river, while breakers dash and thunder against 



the bases of the great perpendicular cliffs which flank us on 

 either side up and down the coast. As far as we can see the 

 shore is cinctured with foam, and a host of sea birds are ho- 

 veriug above the towering crests. To the left, on a grassy 

 beach, are the dilapidated quarters of the Hudson's Bay post, 

 the little tumble-down church, and the bamlct where Napoleon 

 Comeau, the guardian of the river and his relatives and neigh- 

 bors reside. In summer the picture is very pretty, but in 

 winter it must be desolate enough. Yet Comeau finds much 

 employment and profit in shooting seals, spearing porpoises 

 and the like ; while the forest back of him gives occupation 

 for bis traps and gun. 



Turning our backs to the sea, we now overlook the basin of 

 ibe Godbout, lying directly beneath our feet, so deep that its 

 inequalities of surface are blended, and the dark evergreenB 

 which line its bottom and sides, contrasting with the vivid fo- 

 liage: of the newly leaved birches, seem like a woven carpet of 

 velvet. Its rim rests against a girdle of rounded mountains, 

 dark with the sombre hues of spruce. Through its centre 

 meanders the pretty river enclosing the twin islands. Just 

 where its flow is deepest and most placid, and the river bot- 

 tom the smoothest, and most grassy, we can discern the 

 numerous cottages of the Camp ; and a little further beyond, 

 be foaming waters of a rapid tumbling out of a gorge among 

 the trees. A fleet of boats is struggling up the stream with 

 stores landed from the steamer. Five acres of l he bottom 

 was long ago cleared of undergrowth, so ai to secure immunity 

 from the black flies and mosquitoes, and a cool draft of air, 

 as well as a vista looking out to the sea between the sand 

 bluffs. There are five cottages, and several outbuildings 

 which include a Kitchen, ice house, fish house, etc., ranged 

 along the margin of the river. The largest cottage contains 

 a dining room, three chambers, and two bath roooiB, and is 

 flanked by the tower already referred to, which is three stories 

 high end was originally designed to reach above the flight of 

 flies ; but like the ambitious Tower of Babel, it failed of its 

 purpose. The second story of the tower is a chamber, and 

 the third a reading room and sky parlor, looking southward 

 to the river St. Lawrence, eastward upon Ihe smoothly flow- 

 iog reach of the Godbout in front, and northwatd into the 

 gorge above, whence lumbles a series of rapids and pools, 

 forming three wooded islands in the glen. Four Castle- 

 GonBell-"cotts," or punts, like those in use on ihe Shannon, 

 are drawn up in line along the river with their noses against 

 the bank, looking in shape like so many alligators basking in 

 the sun. One of them is a genuine importation from Ireland, 

 and the other ihree were made Irom its model. They are 25 

 feet in leDgth, rising at the prow and stern like gondolas, and 

 stiff enough to be steady for casiing the fly. No other craft 

 could be devised more suitable for the work required of them, 

 which is chiefly in the rapids, and they can be heached in a 

 j ffy when dt:4red The river banks are so difficult or im- 

 praClicable throughout, for shore casts, that the boats are in 

 c instant requisition. They are propelled solely by poles and 

 paddles. There is a pretty canoe drawn up on the beach 

 beside them which adds an aborigiual tinge to the picture, 

 sitting on the porch of the main cottage we obtain a 120-yard 

 rifle range direclly across the river ; and from the same firing- 

 point facing down stream, a 1,000-yard range, with a full- 

 sized Creedmoor larget in position. Some lad shooting has 

 been done at the shorter range, where many glass bottles are 

 repeatedly broken in succession, — lor mine host aud his 

 retainers are not only salmon fishers, but mighty Nimrods 

 whose antlered trophies adorn many a hall aud wall. Indoors 

 we find many conveniences and luxuries, such as cushioned 

 arm chairs, rocking chBirs, mattresses, iron cots, mosquito 

 bars, and gauzs screens at all the windows. The kitchen is a 

 marvel of completeness, aud the larder contains an abundant 

 variety of canned meats and soups, vegetables, sardines, 

 jellies, hams, corned beef, cheese, milk, ale, champagne, 

 sherry, lime juice, seltzer, and so many other things which 

 o.ie may desire or need, that, to the case-hardened sportsman 

 who bas been ace istomed to rounh it in tents, the appoint- 

 ments seem truly luxurious. Yet the occupants are neither 

 novices nor hearth-rug gentry. The chief mentor is a veteran 

 03 years of age, brought up on the frontiers of tho Canadian 

 lumber dis'rict, and is the owner of many of the largest mills; 

 Dut he believes that comfort at any price is preferable to 

 misery. He believes in forefending the arrows, slings, hard- 

 ships, and bard knocks of a campaign rather than suffer and 

 endure them. So say we all of us, as we grow older. We 

 do not propose to test ourselves to the utmost limit of depri- 

 vation, and live like savages, facing the elements, and tearing 

 our food with our fingers. 



Such equipment as Mr. Gilmour has of rods, reels, lines, 

 flies, gaff*, wading clothes, weighing scales, score books and 

 slates, face protectors, fly oil, and the like, few men ever Baw 

 befor . Canada, Great Britain, and the United States are 

 alike scoured in search of Ibe best appliances. In a single 

 box, just consigned, he has £35 worth of Kelso flies of best 

 approved patterns, to say nothing of quantities of other 

 makes. Of American goods I noticed a Leonard bamboo rod, 

 (which he much values,) two reels from Abbey & linbrie, of 

 New "i'ork, aud another from Conroy, Bissett & Maileson, of 

 the same city. As a rule, however, the old Scotchman tena- 

 ciously aud obstiDaiely clings to anything Scotch, and, I 

 believe, claims Scottish superiority for almnst even thing 

 except the Godbout ! There are no salmon rivers in Scotland 

 likethe Godbout. he says, either for "wickedneas,"orplelhora 

 of fish— or for black flies I Black flies are the very devil on 

 American rivers. Nothing in nature so much tries ihe angler's 

 temper and patience. Imagine a person standing helpless for 



