50 Historical Notes on the 



from my memory. The sea horizon to the west was not visible, but 

 there was an indication that there was an opening in the huge 

 chain by which the river would reach the coast. 



When returning from our mountain ascent in the evening, heavy 

 rain set in, which continued almost without intermission till February 

 13th, and during which time, under many difficulties, we were able to^ 

 advance only eleven miles down the river, watching a favourable 

 opportunity when the water went somewhat down, to cross from one- 

 side to the other, where necessary for our purpose. This part of the 

 journey occurred unfortunately at the same time when we had the 

 most inaccessible part of our route to traverse, being, in fact, one of 

 the most rugged pieces of New Zealand ground over which, during my 

 long wanderings, I ever passed. From the junction of the Leading 

 stream with the Haast, the valley of the latter is still so broad, and the 

 fall of the water comparatively so slight, that we could follow the river- 

 bed from side to side ; but after a few miles, the ranges on both sides 

 approached nearer, presenting exceedingly steep slopes, whilst the river 

 at the same time continues for several miles to form a succession of 

 falls and cataracts. On both sides of the river the rocks rise perpen- 

 dicularly, and the small channel through which it forces its way, is still 

 encumbered by enormous rocks, often several hundred tons in weight, 

 amongst and over which the river falls roaring and foaming. More- 

 over, the mountain sides, which we were continually obliged to 

 ascend and descend for many hundred feet, were often covered 

 with blocks of rocks of equal magnitude. The large fissures between 

 these are generally overgrown with moss and roots, the latter some- 

 times so rotten that a hasty step throws the unwary wanderer, toiling 

 under a heavy load, between the fissures, giving him great trouble* to 

 extricate himself. ]S"o level place of sufficient size to pitch our tent 

 was here to be found, either on the mountain sides or in the river-bed, 

 except in places liable to be flooded, as to our discomfiture we found 

 out, on two occasions during the night. Amongst other curious places, 

 w r e were camped for several days under an enormous overhanging rock, 

 with a vertical precipice of 150 feet near us, and the thundering and 

 deafening roar of the swollen main river, forming here a large waterfall 

 as its companion. 



At last we could observe that we came to lower regions, Totara, Eimu 

 and Matai, often of considerable size, became mixed with the Fagus 

 forest which, since we left the Makarora, had, without intermission, 

 clothed the mountain sides. Fern trees soon made their appearance, , 



