48 RIO JANEIRO. 
to consider as a favour done you. The mechanical arts are at least 
half a century behind those of our own country. The churches, 
which are numerous, are falling into decay, which gives a dila- 
pidated look to the city, its religious ceremonies are dispensed with, 
and to crown all, the steps of the churches are made a market- 
place for the sale of sheep, pigeons, fruit, &c. To judge from 
appearances, and the attendance on its services, there exists little 
religious feeling towards the Romish Church. It is true, the same 
constant ringing of bells occurs that is to be heard in all Catholic 
countries, and other outward signs are still kept up ; but the priest- 
hood are not held in such awe as they formerly were, and society 
seems to be breaking through the trammels that have so long 
enslaved the female portion of it. Religion is a mere name among 
the youth of Brazil. The aged are still observant of its ceremonies, 
but little or no attention is paid to the Sabbath. The stores do 
business, and the workshops are open the same as on other days. 
A few are seen going to worship in the morning of that day, but 
a greater number to the billiard-tables in the afternoon, and the 
theatres at night. There is an Episcopal church, and a missionary 
of the Methodist persuasion from the United States resident here. 
We saw Rio de Janeiro under its most favourable aspect, that of 
the holidays, when the church had put on all her finery and decora- 
tions, and every one, slave as well as master, seemed intent upon 
enjoying himself. The Christmas week or holidays give a respite 
from all labour, and various are the amusements. The churches 
are decked and the services extraordinary. 
The neglect of the public walks and roads shows a want of proper 
attention, and strikes the visiter as different from the usual order of 
things around a court. So far as cleanliness goes, Rio, I should 
think, is not much improved. Yet it has every advantage to make 
it a clean city, but the desire appears to be wanting. Neither do I 
intend to assert that its style of buildings is changed. Although the 
government is doing little, yet one sees the spirit of enterprise 
among the citizens. Many private dwellings are being erected, and 
I understood that many improvements were taking place. 
The houses of the city are strongly built of stone, cemented 
together with clay ; this is used in consequence of the scarcity of 
lime, which is only obtained by burning shells fished up from the 
bay. The houses are plastered on the outside, and have a pretty 
appearance and colour. The floors, beams, and roofs, are made of 
