RIO JANEIRO. 67 
All these blacks are from different parts of the coast, and having 
been hostile tribes, retain much of their antipathy to each other. In 
general they are kindly treated, and become firmly attached to their 
masters ; more, however, from a clanish feeling than from gratitude, 
of which virtue they seem to possess little. They are baptized by 
their owners as soon as purchased, and in the cities attend mass regu- 
larly, and go to confession, but they are never thought to become 
entirely civilized. Those who receive their freedom in reward for 
faithful services, or purchase it, conduct themselves well ; their 
descendants are much superior in point of intelligence. Many of 
them own slaves, and prove much more severe masters than the 
whites. Male slaves are put to any trade or craft they may desire. 
Females are for the most part employed as mantua-makers, and 
almost all the finery worn by the higher circles at public fetes is 
made by slaves. Indeed, many masters and mistresses are dependent 
on the labour of their slaves for their daily support, There are some 
blacks who are priests, and others officers in the army; indeed, some 
of the deputies would not pass for white men elsewhere. 
Another remarkable circumstance that strikes the visiter is the 
absence of beggars. Many disgusting objects may be seen among 
the slave population, but I do not recollect having met with a beggar. 
I have understood that they are not suffered to appear in the streets. 
This is the law in almost all cities, but here it is observed. Chari- 
table institutions are extensively endowed, particularly that of the 
Misericordia. 
The streets of the city generally cross each other at right angles. 
Some few of them have sidewalks, but they are narrow and badly 
paved. The gutters are in the middle of the streets, with a stream 
of water which emits a smell by no means agreeable. Those most 
frequented are the Rua Direita and Ouvidor. The former, containing 
the palace and cathedral, is the broadest in the city. In the latter 
are the principal shops, and it is the gayest. The streets are paved 
with blocks of stone. The houses are for most part two stories in 
height, and notwithstanding the materials are strong, yet the red 
tiled roofs overhang in places fearfully. The interior of the houses 
will not bear inspection. Ceilings, walls, and floors, are all exceed- 
ingly rough. In those of the better kind, the walls and ceilings are 
plastered, and have ornamented designs painted in fresco. Silk 
hangings are much in vogue. I was much struck with the want of 
light and ventilation in the rooms and houses. The city in some 
