RIO JANEIRO. 73 
is flat, with occasional undulations. About two miles from Estrella 
they came to a guard-house, where they were stopped. Their guide 
not being at hand, and not understanding the language themselves, they 
supposed their passports were demanded, and believing the reports to 
be true that we had all heard so often of the jealousy of the Brazilians 
in relation to the admission of foreigners into the interior, they con- 
cluded they were now to experience it. But on the guide coming 
up, the matter was soon arranged by the payment of a small tax, 
which was the only passport they found necessary. The ascent of 
the pass is made by a well-paved zigzag road. They soon reached 
the house of Padre Luiz, where they were kindly and hospitably 
received, and supper was supplied them from his scanty larder. 
Padre Luiz's house was quite spacious : a long one-story building, 
containing under the same roof the stable and storehouse, as well as 
accommodations for travellers and the females of the family. The 
latter, agreeably to the custom of the country, were not seen, though 
known to exist. Cold and wet, our travellers were ushered into an 
apartment where there was neither floor nor fire, and in which there 
was a free circulation of air through the cracks and crevices in the 
walls. The roof, however, was tight, which was essential, as it was 
raining hard. A little further insight and experience into the cus- 
toms and comforts of the country made them think that the accom- 
modations had been excellent. After a most unreasonable delay, 
coffee, a fowl, and rice were set before them, with much parade and 
ceremony. During the night they heard what was supposed to be 
the howling monkey, but upon inquiry it turned out to be a Brazilian 
toad, called in Brazil "the blacksmith," whose croak is said to 
resemble very much the sound of hammering on an anvil. 
The next morning, understanding that they had been treated with 
luxuries and as persons of distinction, they told their host that they 
preferred the dish of the country "came seca" and "farinha," which, 
with the addition of a few eggs and a cup of coffee, made an excellent 
meal, and was quickly served. 
They rode this day about twenty miles beyond the Organ Moun- 
tains, the extent to which their jaunt reached. On their way they 
met vast numbers of mules heavily laden. The roads were generally 
good, and a very little expense would have made them excellent for 
carriages. 
At Padre Corneas', at the top of the pass, they found a native fig- 
tree, of enormous size, with numerous parasitical plants upon it. It 
VOL. I. 19 
