174 CHILI. 
the military uniform, as it seems unbecoming in a republican form of 
government ; at least we thought so. 
The shops are well filled with almost all articles of English, 
American and French manufacture. The markets are well supplied. 
There are no market-gardens in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, 
and nearly all the vegetables are brought from the valley of Quillota, 
about sixteen miles distant, on the backs of mules in panniers. The 
mode of bringing grass or clover to market is peculiar, it at times 
almost covers both horse and rider. The supplies are abundant and 
of excellent quality, consisting of all kinds of fruits and vegetables, 
&c. The prices vary but little from those at home; beef, for 
instance, costs six and a half cents per pound. 
There are but few amusements. Among them is a theatre, which 
is small and inconvenient, and the chingano, both of which are 
usually open on a Sunday evening. 
The Chilians are extremely fond of the dance called the sama- 
cueca. This may be called the national dance, and is in vo<me 
among the common people. It is usually performed at the chingano, 
which is a kind of amphitheatre surrounded by apartments where 
refreshments, including strong drinks, are sold, and is generally well 
filled by both sexes. The dance is performed on a kind, of stao-e under 
an open shed. The music is a mixture of Spanish and Indian, and is 
performed altogether by females, on an old-fashioned long and narrow 
harp, one end of which rests on the lap of the performer, and the other 
on the stage, ten feet off. A second girl is seen merrily beating time 
on the sounding-board of the instrument. On the right is another, 
strumming the common chords on a wire-string guitar or kitty, 
making, at every vibration of the right hand, a full sweep across all 
the strings, and varying the chords. In addition to this, they sang a 
national love-song in Spanish at the top of their voices, one singing a 
kind of alto, the whole producing a very strange combination of sounds. 
The dance is performed by a young man and woman ; the former 
is gaudily decked in a light scarlet jacket, embroidered with gold 
lace, white pantaloons, red sash and pumps, with a tiny red cap ; 
whilst that of his partner consists of a gaudy painted muslin dress, 
quite short and stiffly starched, not a little aided by an ample pair of 
hips; thrown over all is a rich-coloured French shawl; these, with 
well fitted silk stockings, complete her attire. These last are in truth 
characteristic of the Chilian women of all classes, and they take no 
pains to conceal them. One not unfrequently sees the extravagance 
