184 CHILI. 
Lighter articles are transported by mules, and immense numbers 
of these animals are seen on the road at all times. 
The mode of changing horses is truly characteristic of the country. 
The relays are made as soon as the shaft-horse tires ; he is quickly 
taken out, and one of the drove caught with a lasso, and put in his 
place, when on they go. These relays occur every eight or ten miles ; 
the only relief the poor horses have is a trot out of harness, and without 
a load. The bilocheros seldom dismount; all is done on horseback. 
On going up hill, a third or even a fourth horse is soon hitched to the 
vehicle to assist the draught, The horses are all in good condition, 
and it is not a little remarkable that they should be so, for I understood 
that their only food at this season was chopped straw. The teamsters 
and Guachos themselves are equally abstemious. They live mostly 
upon bread and their favourite chicha, which is made from the grape, 
and resembles cider; but after it has passed through a fermentation it 
is quite intoxicating. The mud huts or ranchos, on the road side, are 
filled with happy and contented faces. 
Begging is common on the road to the city, and is quite a business. 
The beggars let themselves to the highest bidders, and value them- 
selves according to their deformities. At Valparaiso two days are 
allowed in each week for begging. 
peasant's noirsK. 
The plain of Maypo, which reaches to the foot of the Cuesta del 
Prada, is extremely level, and is almost thirty miles in width, 
extending to the foot of the Cordilleras. The road leads nearly in a 
straight line over it to the city of Santiago, which is situated on the 
eastern side of the plain. 
The elevation of Santiago above the sea is fifteen hundred and 
ninety-one feet, upon the third step or plain from the coast. Its 
entrance is through avenues bounded by high adobe walls, which 
shut out ail the view, except the Cordilleras, which tower above and 
beyond it. 
The more the Cordilleras are viewed the greater appears their 
attraction. They have at all times an imposing aspect from the 
