PERU. 241 
and various-coloured glass lamps, on which is a rude painting of the 
Virgin. As they walk, they chaunt their prayers. 
The market, though there is nothing else remarkable about it, 
exhibits many of the peculiar customs of the country. It is held in 
a square of about one and a half acres. The stands for selling meat 
are placed indiscriminately, or without order. Beef is sold for from 
four to six cents the pound, is cut in the direction of its fibre, and 
looks filthy. It is killed on the commons, and the hide, head, and 
horns, are left for the buzzards and dogs. The rest is brought to 
market on the backs of donkeys. Chickens are cut up to suit pur- 
chasers. Fish and vegetables are abundant, and of good kinds, and 
good fruit may be had, if bespoken; in this case it is brought from 
Lima. Every thing confirms, on landing, the truth of the geogra- 
phical adage, " In Peru it never rains." It appears every where 
dusty and parched up. 
We had a good opportunity of visiting the far-famed fortress. It is 
said to be able to contain ten thousand troops ; and, from its extent, 
would appear capable of accommodating that number with ease. 
What engaged our attention most, was a review of the soldiers of 
the garrison. They are about eight hundred strong, and every one 
seemed to be "acting on his own hook," as they are said to have 
done in the late battle. The officers, instead of swords, carried cow- 
hides, about five feet in length, which they applied with earnestness 
to the men, and indeed, from appearances, they seemed to require it, 
if they were ever to be changed into soldiers. 
The situation of old Callao is still visible, under the water, and 
though an interesting object, becomes a melancholy one, when one 
thinks of the havoc a few minutes effected. The very foundation 
seems to have been upturned and shaken to pieces, and the whole 
submerged by a mighty wave. The wonder is that any one escaped 
to tell the tale. 
Two crosses mark the height to which the sea rose : the upper 
one, one-third of the way to Lima, indicates the extreme distance to 
which the water flowed; the lower one marks the place whither 
the Spanish frigate was carried. I very much doubt the truth of 
either. I can easily conceive that a great wave would be sufficient 
to carry a large vessel from her moorings half a mile inland, but I 
cannot imagine how the water should have reached the height of one 
hundred and fifty feet at least above the level of the sea, and yet 
VOL. I. 61 
