242 PERU. 
permitted two hundred inhabitants of old Callao to have escaped on 
the walls of a church which are not half that height. 
Outside the walls of the fortress are several large vaults, filled 
with the dead, in all stages of decay, and on which the vultures were 
gorging themselves : this was a revolting spectacle. Indeed, it is truly 
surprising that the higher classes, and those in immediate authority, 
should not feel the necessity of appearing more civilized in the dispo- 
sition of their dead. Many are thrown in naked, and covered only 
with a few inches of sand. Great numbers of skeletons are still seen 
with pieces of clothing hanging to them. Dogs and vultures in great 
numbers were every where feeding upon the dead, or standing aloof 
fairly gorged with their disgusting repast. If any thing is calculated 
to make a people brutal, and to prevent the inculcation of proper 
feeling, it is such revolting sights as these. 
Callao is said to contain between two and three thousand inhabi- 
tants; but this number, from the appearance of the place, seems to be 
overrated. Several new buildings are going up, which proves, that 
notwithstanding the times of revolution, they still persist in carrying 
on improvements. The principal street is about a third of a mile in 
length, and is tolerably well paved, with sidewalks. Billiard-sions 
stare you in the face. This, I presume, may be set down as the 
great amusement, to which may be added the favourite monte at 
night. There is no lack of pulperias. 
Coaches, or rather omnibusses, run several times a day to Lima 
The old accounts of robberies on the road to Lima, are still fresh in 
the mouths of strangers. In times of revolution it was infested by 
robbers, but the steps taken by government have effectually put a 
stop to them. l 
The 4th of July was duly celebrated. The Falmouth, Captain 
M Keever, fired a salute in honour of the day, and the Vincennes 
was dressed with national flags. 
On the road to Lima is Bella Vista; but it is in ruins, and has 
been so ever since the revolution. It was generally the outpost 
or battle-ground of the two parties; and although the soil in 
the plain which borders the sea is extremely fertile, consisting of 
decomposed rock, containing the elements of fertility in the greatest 
abundance, it now appears a neglected waste. Attention to its 
cultivation and irrigation would make it a perfect garden On 
approaching Lima, the gardens and fields are found to be cul- 
