PERU. 043 
tivated and well irrigated. Fields of Indian corn are seen, some 
fully ripe, some half-grown, and others just shooting up, — a novel 
sight to us. This bears testimony not only to the fineness of the 
climate, but to the fertility of the soil. The gardens near the city 
are filled to profusion with fruits of all descriptions. 
The road, on its near approach to the city, forms an avenue of 
about a mile in length. This, in its prosperous days, was the usual 
evening drive, and afforded a most agreeable one. On each side are 
gardens filled with orange trees, the fragrance of whose flowers, and 
the beauty and variety of the fruit, added to its pleasures. It is now 
going to decay from utter neglect. Its rows of willows, and the 
streams of running water on each side, though forming its great 
attraction, will, if suffered to remain without attention, be completely 
destroyed. No one seems to take interest in the public works. So 
marked a difference from Chili could not but be observed. 
At Lima I was struck with the change that had taken place since 
my former visit. Every thing now betokens poverty and decay; 
a sad change from its former splendour and wealth. This appear- 
ance was observed not only in the city, but also among the in- 
habitants. Whole families have been swept off, and their former 
attendants, or strangers, have become the possessors of their houses 
and property. 
The country lias been a scene of commotion and revolution for the 
last twenty-five years, of which Lima for a long time was the centre. 
The fate of Lower Peru being entirely dependent on it, and the fortress 
of Callao, the alternate possessors have stripped it and its inhabitants 
in every way in their power. It may with truth be designated a 
declining city. 
The neglected walls and ruined tenements, the want of stir and life 
among the people, are sad evidences of this decay. The population 
is now said to be about forty-five thousand, although in former times 
it has been supposed to amount to as many as sixty-five or seventy 
thousand. 
The aspect of the city, especially a bird's-eye view from the 
neighbouring hills, gives to the eye of the stranger the appearance 
of ruins. There are few buildings that have the look of dura- 
bility, and no new ones have been put up for the last forty years. 
The plan of the city combines more advantages than any other that 
could have been adopted for the locality. The streets are at right 
