244 p E R u - 
angles, and all sufficiently broad. Those which run with the 
declivity of the ground, northwest and southeast, have water flowing 
through their middle. They have not, however, a very clean ap- 
pearance ; but this is certainly not to be imputed to the want of the 
facility of being made so. The uses to which these streams are put, 
and the numerous buzzards that frequent them, gives the stranger 
any other idea than that of cleanliness. The buzzards are protected 
by law, and may be seen fighting for their food in the gutters, 
regardless of passers; or sitting on the tops of the houses, thirty or 
forty in a row, watching for more food. 
Great attention has been paid to laying out the Alameda, which is 
on the north side of the city. Its centre is ornamented with a 
number of fountains ; its walks are well shaded on each side with 
trees ; and the running water adds to its freshness : all unite to 
form a delightful promenade. In the cool of the evening it is much 
frequented, and its stone seats are occupied by numbers of citizens. 
This is the best place to get a view of the inhabitants ; and notwith- 
standing their internal commotions, they appear fully to enjoy their 
cigarittas, which they are constantly smoking. The peculiar dress 
of the ladies is here seen to the best advantage, and, however fitted it 
may be to cover intrigue, is not, certainly, adapted to the display of 
beauty. A more awkward and absurd dress cannot well be conceived. 
It is by no means indicative of the wearer's rank, for frequently this 
disguise is ragged and tattered, and assumed under its most forbid- 
ding aspect to deceive, or carry on an intrigue, of which it is almost 
an effectual cloak. 
I never could behold these dresses without considering them as an 
emblem of the wretched condition of domestic society in this far- 
famed city. 
The saya and manta were originally intended as a retiring, modest 
dress, to mark reserve, to insure seclusion, and to enable ladies to go 
abroad without an escort. The general term for the wearers is 
Tapada, and they were always held sacred from insult. Tapada is 
likewise applied to a dress which is also frequently seen, viz. : a shawl 
worn over the head, so as to cover the nose, mouth, and forehead. 
None but the most intimate friend can know the wearers, who fre- 
quent the theatres in this disguise. It is to be regretted, that it is 
now worn for very different purposes from its original intention. 
Intrigues of all kinds are said to be carried on under it. It enables 
