264 PERU. 
done, in consequence, according to the people of the country, of its 
not getting to the surface. 
Early on the 17th the party set out up the dry mountain valley, 
the soil of which is composed of stones and loose powdery earth.' 
This kind of ground continued for five leagues, with not a drop of 
water, nor was a plant or bird collected ; nothing was seen growing 
but a few Tillandsias. On this route they passed many crosses, 
marking the spots where there had been loss of life : a sight that was 
not calculated to excite pleasing thoughts, and bringing to mind not 
only the great number of murders that had taken place, but the 
daily occurrence of attacks upon small parties of travellers by the 
desperadoes of Peru. 
Immediately on the confines of this dreary waste is Yanoa, a 
deserted-looking place, but having some good gardens and orchards 
At noon they reached Santa Rosa de Quivi, a small place, where 
they procured some good fruit. After travelling two leagues, they at 
dark reached Yaso, and stopped at the postmaster's house ; he was 
not at home, but they were permitted to sleep in the porch or 
veranda. Nothing edible was to be found in the village, except a 
few potatoes, after supping on which they disposed themselves on 
the clay and stones, with their arms ready for service, a precaution 
necessary at times, even in the most frequented places, in Peru. 
During the day, they had been much annoyed by sand-flies, and 
fleas were as usual in myriads at night ; besides these, they had a 
few musquitoes, but the latter are seldom felt in Peru. 
The screaming of parrots during the night had announced that 
some change had taken place in the vegetation. In the morning they 
found this to be the case. The land in the vicinity of the town was 
cultivated, and some good orchards and fields of clover seen ; the 
mountains, which had hitherto been gray with Tillandsias, had' now 
assumed a greenish tinge. Agaves made their appearance here, and 
a few miles beyond, the hills became entirely green; all showed that 
a different region had been entered. The inclined roofs of the huts 
proved that rains were experienced, and that it was found necessary 
by the inhabitants to protect themselves from them. 
The valley had now become more contracted, and level ground was 
seldom seen; the mountains increased in elevation, the roads and 
scenery partaking of the character of Madeira. Cascades were seen 
springing from almost the very summits of the high peaks ; cattle were 
